(FRAG REVIEW) Luxury on a Budget: Can Armaf Untold Match the Opulence of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540?

Few fragrances in recent memory have rocked the world of perfumery quite like Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP. Also known as BR 540, it's definitely one that people see as daring and avante garde, even those who have only a passing interest in frags.

Released in 2016, BR 540’s appeal isn’t immediately clear on paper. There’s so much about it that simply shouldn’t work.

First, the scent profile is entirely synthetic. There’s nowhere in nature where you’ll find anything that smells remotely like this—or arguably as opulent. It’s the ultimate rebuttal to the idea that a scent must smell natural to be good. 

Second, BR 540’s formula is deceptively simple but infamously difficult to describe. Saffron, Ambroxan, Hedione, and Virginia Cedar are the only listed notes on Parfumo (a detailed list of ingredients would surely show more, but these are the highlights). Many people say it has a cotton candy vibe, and I would agree with that, but it's so much more.

Third, it’s very linear. Perhaps partially because of that, it’s easy for many people wearing it to go noseblind. Others around you will definitely smell it, but you might not notice it yourself—except for the occasional whiff when moving to a new space or stepping outdoors. That’s just part of the wearing experience.

Lastly, BR 540 is a study in contrasts, if ever there was one. Like the elegant crystal glass bottle it comes in, the fragrance is delicate, sweet, and airy, yet simultaneously structured and well-defined. It’s niche and priced accordingly, yet a crowd-pleaser. It’s metallic, yet woody. And while marketed as unisex, women tend to gravitate toward it more—though men can absolutely rock it.

Now, about that price. For a 70ml bottle, Maison Francis Kurkdjian lists BR 540 at an eye-wateringly high $295 USD. That price is simply out of reach for most people. 

Naturally, there will always be clones of BR 540. There’s no law against one perfume house copying another’s fragrance. With BR 540’s simple formula and high price, it’s easy to see why clones are so popular—people gravitate toward what they love at a more affordable price. 

Among the literally dozens of clones of BR 540, some of the most well-known include Mancera’s Instant Crush, Ariana Grande’s Cloud, Lattafa’s Ana Abiyedh Rouge, and, in my opinion, the best of the bunch: Armaf’s Club de Nuit Untold.

Armaf Club de Nuit Untold

A Middle Eastern fragrance house headquartered in Dubai, Armaf has clearly identified its customers and knows how to serve them. The brand is celebrated for taking some of the hottest—and most expensive—designer and niche fragrances in the world and offering near-identical copies for a fraction of the price, mainly through its Club de Nuit lineup. I bought my new 105ml bottle (not a typo: unlike virtually every other house, Armaf doesn’t use 100ml bottles) in the Toronto area for about $55 CAD.

If you’ve smelled BR 540, you’ve smelled Untold. The resemblance is uncanny. For me, it’s a joy to wear, and I find myself reaching for it often. In public, almost no one—except the most discerning noses—will realize you’re wearing a fragrance that costs a sixth of what the original sells for. Also, Untold is just as versatile as BR 540 for layering—very much so.

Since I’ve already explained what BR 540 smells like, let’s discuss how Untold differs. Don't get the wrong idea, the differences are small, I had to really rack my brains to come up with anything:  

1. Untold has a slightly muskier scent and is a bit less sweet, which, to my nose, makes it lean a tiny bit more masculine than BR 540.  
2. Some reviewers mention a more noticeable alcohol scent upon the first application of Untold. I’ve noticed this too, but I also detect it in BR 540, albeit a little less. In either case, the scent dissipates within a few minutes.  
3. When I first bought my bottle of Untold, I detected a peculiar rubber-band-like scent. It wasn’t unpleasant, just unexpected. This odd note disappeared completely after about a month of use—maturation definitely makes a difference.  

I’ve gone through more than half of my bottle in the several months I’ve owned it, and it’s quickly become one of my favorite fragrances. While I do love the original BR 540, Untold gets the job done for me.

While I empathize with perfumers who labor for years to create unique fragrances only to have their ideas copied, I’ve never felt like I was making a cheap compromise by wearing Untold. Nor have I experienced any FOMO for not owning the real deal. The price of Untold is simply too compelling to ignore.

It doesn’t take a lot of money to smell good these days. With the rise in quality from Middle Eastern houses and the ever-increasing prices of Western designer and niche fragrances, I find it hard to justify spending $300 on a bottle. At some point, customers will vote with their wallets—and it’s already happening. With inflation and economic struggles worldwide, designer and niche labels need to reevaluate their pricing strategies.

Who wore it better?

If Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Baccarat Rouge 540 is the bespoke red carpet gown, Untold is the chic little number styled after it that just works for every occasion. Both look (and smell) fabulous, but one leaves you with enough cash for dinner—and maybe dessert, too.

If you love BR 540 and believe it’s of higher quality, and want it in your collection, then it might be worth the investment for you. I get that.

But for those like me, who are looking for an economical yet stunningly close interpretation of the original, one that is a little more masculine and arguably a lot more wearable than the OG, just get Armaf Club de Nuit Untold.