Parfums de Marly's new Les Extraits line shows storm clouds building on its horizon

 

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By 𝔸𝕝𝕚 𝔹𝕠𝕜𝕙𝕒𝕣𝕚 ⁣
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Parfums de Marly's new "Les Extraits" line has turned frag comm's opinion of it on its head, and not for the better. I think I know why, even without having smelled them. ⁣
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I have stayed mostly quiet about PDM's latest direction up to now, but enough is enough. I have studied and worked with marketing and design teams for many years, and rarely have I seen such as serious mistep as this.⁣
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I am not saying the following lightly, but neither am I saying something most people are not thinking privately. ⁣
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There are three main reasons why I am seeing the new PDM fragrances getting more suspicion than acclaim, and it has everything to do with sales and marketing:⁣
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1️⃣ The cost of the Les Extraits fragrances on PDM's site is extremely high, at this time at more than $771 CAD ($550 USD) before taxes, which is more out of reach than all but the wealthiest frag heads, not the entry level niche crowd. At this price point the juice must be damn well above impeccable, as potential buyers are used to the unusual and trendsetting. Which brings us to ... ⁣
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2️⃣ So far reviewers have mostly damned the new frags with faint praise as being fairly pedestrian (and dare I say ... designer!), not what customers carefully choosing their next big niche fragrance want to hear. Niche heads may not want to admit it because they are used to putting up with a lot in the name of art, but it doesn't take much negative press for them to head for the exits. The last thing they want to buy is something boring and pedestrian, even if that is unfair criticism.⁣
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3️⃣ The packaging of the new bottles is a radical departure from what most people have come to love and believe the brand stood for. Originally said to be inspired by King Louis XV of France's royal residence Château de Marly, PDM's name has been built on many years of carefully positioning the house to evoke all the tradition and heritage of an 18th century royal court, not ... 𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘴.⁣
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The third concern above is I think even more of an issue then the first two, for myself at least. Prices can be easily changed, reviewers can change their mind, but making a serious mistep in branding can potentially spell trouble for a brand for many years. ⁣
Even individuals like myself who are not PDM fans think the original style has a simple beauty. Its design communicates a time in which artisans used rulers, printing blocks and hand drawings to create works of art. The new bottles on the other hand have to my eye an antiseptic and almost alien appearance. I would not be surprised if the horse on the new bottle (or Donald Trump's head in profile looking left, depending on who you ask) was created by an excited design student using AI.⁣
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With the new bottles PDM's design language also screams an embrace of futurism, which is a complete break with its identity until now. I cannot understand why they would take such a departure from an almost universally loved bottle design. There is something human profoundly lacking in the new design, in my opinion. ⁣
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I don't know what I'm supposed to think about the new juice inside with such a radically different approach. PDM definitely does have our attention though, so if that is what they wanted, they certainly have it. My question is what will we think after PDM has had their 15 minutes in the sun? Once the shock wears off what will history say about this moment in time? ⁣
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I hope I'm wrong and I wish PDM all my best, but in my opinion I don't see how the new design will work. The best thing they can do is discontinue this poorly thought line and get back to doing what they do best: entry-level aspirational niche fragrances inspired my aristocracy.⁣
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What are your thoughts on the new Parfums de Marly Les Extraits line? Do you agree with my criticisms, or do you have another take?⁣
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Sound off in the comments below!

(REVIEW) Memo Paris African Leather: A Masterpiece With a Problematic Name ⁣

By 𝔸𝕝𝕚 𝔹𝕠𝕜𝕙𝕒𝕣𝕚⁣

Several months after buying Memo Paris African Leather, I can safely say it falls well within masterpiece territory. Certainly not because of its name, though, which almost turned me away. I’ll get to that in the second half of this article.⁣

This is the second of four fragrance reviews, the first one being Frederic Malle Promise. The next two reviews are Amouage Lyric Man and Amouage Interlude Black Iris Man.⁣

𝐀𝐧 𝐞𝐱𝐨𝐭𝐢𝐜 𝐟𝐫𝐚𝐠𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐫𝐞𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐝𝐬 𝐦𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐡𝐨𝐦𝐞⁣

Is African Leather great? Yes, it’s absolutely a phenomenal fragrance.⁣

When I first reviewed it, I couldn’t detect any leather, just beautiful wafts of cardamom, cumin and other spices. This was not a disappointment; if anything, my appreciation has only deepened with time.⁣

The perfumer, Alienor Massenet, was a familiar name even before I owned this fragrance. She has composed more than 160 perfumes, including Jazz Club by Maison Martin Margiela. I sampled Jazz Club last winter in Chicago, hoping to be captivated, but found it far too boozy for my taste. As in I felt I actually had booze on my hand where I sprayed Jazz Club. Not exactly what an observant Muslim wants.⁣

Massenet has also created several strikingly unusual, very expensive scents for the ultra-niche house Floraiku. Her One Umbrella for Two, for example, features tea and rice among its middle notes. It’s one fragrance I’ve heard is amazing but I haven’t yet tried.⁣

With African Leather, however, Massenet hit a home run with the bases fully loaded, and we’re all better off for it. This fragrance radiates an atmosphere that resonates deeply with me, and if anything, my respect for it grows with each wearing.⁣

What makes it special is not the individual notes but the way they are composed and intertwined with such expertise.⁣

𝐌𝐲 𝐟𝐚𝐯𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐚𝐦𝐨𝐦 𝐟𝐫𝐚𝐠 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐮𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐞𝐬𝐬⁣

Cardamom, for instance, is by no means an uncommon note. It appears in everything from Parfums de Marly Layton to YSL La Nuit de l’Homme to Adidas Energy Drive. Yet in African Leather, the cardamom is presented with exceptional precision and authenticity.⁣

While there are notes on which I may not have the expertise to comment, I know cardamom intimately.

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It is an essential ingredient in South Asian cooking, a scent that defined my childhood. It reminds me of my mother’s Pakistani dishes, she used cardamom in everything from steaming hot rice to flavourful tea, to dry and wet curries. In such dishes, cardamom is never meant to be eaten; it’s added to food to elevate the aroma, and thank God for that, because without it many dishes would be far less enchanting.⁣

In African Leather, the cardamom is photorealistic. It’s the most faithful and refined representation of that spice I’ve ever encountered in a fragrance. It takes me back to evenings in Illinois around the kitchen table with my parents and sister, eating dinner and talking about our day.⁣

𝐂𝐮𝐦𝐢𝐧, 𝐚 𝐩𝐨𝐥𝐚𝐫𝐢𝐳𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐚𝐥 𝐈𝐧𝐠𝐫𝐞𝐝𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐭⁣

Cumin, another powerful defining note in African Leather, might be more polarizing, but I love it as well. Unlike cardamom, cumin isn’t officially listed on Fragrantica or Parfumo, though Basenotes includes it among the top notes. I definitely do smell the cumin, and it more than holds it's own.⁣

Cumin is just as central to South Asian cooking as cardamom, perhaps even more so. Used whole or ground in thousands of dishes, cumin imparts a warm, earthy and slightly smoky flavour. In Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, it’s a staple. To me, its scent feels completely natural and familiar, though I understand why those unaccustomed to it might find it challenging in a fragrance.⁣

Many reviewers describe cumin as reminiscent of body odour, but in African Leather it walks a careful tightrope, adding depth without overpowering the cardamom. Its smoky warmth lends the perfume gravity and richness.⁣

Together, the cardamom and cumin create a subtly gourmand effect for someone like me who grew up surrounded by these spices. That said, you don’t need a South Asian background to appreciate this fragrance, just approach it with an open mind.⁣

Maybe even visit a restaurant that uses such spices before trying the scent yourself. If you love the vibe and gorgeous aromas, you’ll likely adore African Leather⁣

𝐖𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐠𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐭 𝐡𝐚𝐬 𝐚 𝐛𝐚𝐝 𝐧𝐚𝐦𝐞⁣

So is it all good? Well …⁣

I have to admit, the first time I saw Memo Paris African Leather, I was sceptical.⁣

It had nothing to do with the fragrance itself, and everything to do with its name. Buckle up.⁣

I’ll be honest. I may be in the minority among fragrance enthusiasts, but I dislike the name African Leather. At the risk of being dismissed or mocked, I’ll say it plainly. I believe in being transparent in my reviews because I learn not only about fragrance but also about myself and other people’s perspectives in the process.⁣

I’m certain no harm was intended in naming it African Leather. It’s an outstanding creation, one I truly admire. But as someone who has actually lived in North Africa, in Morocco, the name feels, frankly, more than a little cringe.⁣

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐛𝐥𝐞𝐦 𝐨𝐟 𝐫𝐞𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧⁣

I lived in Morocco and studied Arabic there after earning my BA in Communications. At the time, I had no idea how many distinct cultures existed within Morocco, many of which are little known outside the region. But after my limited experience in that country, it became clear to me how much I had to learn about a part of the world that gets little love, a heavy dose of pity and a lot of ridicule.⁣

Too often, Africa is still imagined as one vast, mysterious land filled with monkeys, tigers, call centre scams and dark-skinned, impoverished people. But actually, Africa is a continent, not a country, and it is vast, complex and extraordinarily diverse.⁣

So, to name a fragrance African Leather doesn’t make much sense to me. It might sound to some of my readers like just a woke observation, but it’s really not if you think about it.⁣

For most of us, we readily recognize that Europe, a far smaller continent, is multifaceted, and rightly so. We don’t confuse Greece with Iceland, or Germany with Spain. We understand that each has its own language, culture and identity. Yet when it comes to Africa, many people lump an entire continent of 54 nations and 1.5 billion people into one monolithic exotic idea, one supposedly defined by spices, mystery and primal sensuality.⁣

That kind of over-generalization does a disservice to everyone.⁣

If I were to ask even many well-educated people how Djibouti differs from Ghana, or Senegal from Rwanda, I’d likely get blank stares. Too few people realize that Africa is home to countless cultures, languages and histories, some stretching back tens of thousands of years. Anthropologists even identify it as the birthplace of humanity itself.⁣

Why is it that so many in the West know almost nothing about Africa? It’s bizarre. The continent is so massive that you can fit the United States, Europe, and China inside it, and still have plenty of space left over.⁣

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐧𝐲 𝐨𝐟 𝐚 𝐦𝐚𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐩𝐢𝐞𝐜𝐞⁣

So what does all this have to do with African Leather? Simply put, naming a perfume after an entire continent feels misguided.⁣

None of Memo Paris’s other scents are named after continents. Within the brand’s lineup, you’ll find Irish Leather, French Leather, Russian Leather, and, interestingly enough, Moroccan Leather, even though as I explained, Morocco is part of Africa.⁣

There is no North American Leather, however there is an Oriental Leather, which I find nearly as uncomfortable as African Leather, a little bit less perhaps because general awareness of countries in the Asia-Pacific Rim is somewhat greater.⁣

𝐑𝐞𝐬𝐩𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐩𝐥𝐞𝐱𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝐢𝐧 𝐚𝐫𝐭 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐜𝐮𝐥𝐭𝐮𝐫𝐞⁣

Memo Paris African Leather is, without question, a masterpiece of modern perfumery. The craftsmanship, balance and emotional power of its composition make it one of the finest spice-based fragrances I’ve ever experienced. It is warm, sophisticated, outspoken and transportive, which is everything great art should be. Yet the brilliance of the perfume only heightens the irony that its name is too simplistic. 

A fragrance that achieves such depth and complexity deserves a title that reflects the same respect for nuance that Alienor Massenet brought to its composition.⁣

African Leather may not have the perfect name, but the scent itself comes remarkably close to perfection. Get it if you can, enjoy it and use it as inspiration to begin learning about a part of the world that 1.5 billion people call home.

From climbing to 45,000 followers to hitting rock botton: Derek Hughes on fragrances, divorce and always refusing to give up

By 𝔸𝕝𝕚 𝔹𝕠𝕜𝕙𝕒𝕣𝕚

As someone who built a career in writing and communications, I’ve always been drawn to stories of reinvention. I especially love to see people from different walks of life in the fragrance community succeeding and to interview them. That’s what initially drew me to Derek Hughes, an up-and-coming fragrance influencer. 

It was only after Derek approached me earlier this week, asking me if I would like to buy his vlogging equipment, that I immediately sensed something was wrong. Until I asked, I had no idea what he was going through.⁣

⁣Derek lives in a quiet, conservative New Hampshire town, a place where standing out isn’t always welcomed and word travels fast. His fragrance reviews are now enjoyed by more than 40,000 followers across the net, but nearby with certain folks Derek is a pariah. His unusual style, clear love of fragrances and his growing online presence have set him apart. 

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According to Derek, the intense hours he poured into building a marketing business and creating fragrance content recently strained his marriage and contributed to its breakup. He also says online attacks by locals who didn't understand his love for fragrances peddled the falsehood that he was gay, crippling his business and reputation. If that was not enough, the court ruling regarding his and his ex's separation of assets is looming. Derek said he could lose almost everything but his car, including his house.⁣

(There's a fundraiser to help on GoFundMe, Secure Housing and Health for Derek's Future. Click the link to donate.)

I sat down with Derek to talk about his journey, the personal cost of pursuing a passion in an unsupportive environment and the fragrances that still inspire him. What follows is our conversation. I kept Derek's words true to how he spoke them, edited only for clarity and spelling.⁣

AB: Derek, you and I both know what it’s like to grow up in a small town where standing out can be hard. What was childhood like for you?

DH: Growing up in Massachusetts, I was a curious, creative kid who loved music, writing and art. I’d even pretend to host TV shows in the mirror. My teen years got harder after doctors misdiagnosed me with dysthymia, which I later learned was bipolar disorder. It created challenges not only for me but also for my family and made social situations tough. However, I've been getting treatment for many years. I don't actually see bipolar as a disability, it has its benefits, including great creativity.

AB: Were you always drawn to creativity or entrepreneurship?

DH: Yes! I idolized musicians and actors and dreamed of being famous so people would see my talents, not my shortcomings. Somehow I felt that if I became famous then people would see me for who I really was.

AB: Who influenced you most growing up?

DH: My dad. Our relationship is strained, but he was always my superhero. He adopted me, gave me his name and taught me how to have deep heart-to-heart conversations. I was always aware that what he did was incredibly unique and honorable.

AB: Did you imagine running a business or being online back then?

DH: Not at all! I was a chef for 16 years. But a psychic once told me I’d travel the world, reach millions and work in media and marketing. I found that extremely odd for years. 

AB: How did your marketing agency begin?

DH: I filmed a food review for fun, and the restaurant had its busiest day that season. They paid me to do another, so I launched my business two weeks later. I realized there might be something to turning social media influence into income.

AB: What was life like at its peak?

DH: Incredible. My confidence soared, and we outperformed every other agency in New Hampshire. Hearing a 'no' was rare, which was exhilarating.

AB: Did running your business affect your personal life?

DH: Absolutely. I lived online chasing likes and views. My marriage suffered because my wife felt neglected due to my paying more attention to my business and fragrance channels. It also created distance from friends and family as I became consumed by my work.

AB: Let's switch gears, but I'm coming back to the topic of your marriage in a bit. When did fragrance become important to you?

DH: My mom sold Avon and gifted me cologne, but my passion truly started in 2005 during Hurricane Katrina. Stranded in an abandoned hotel, I found a bottle of Acqua di Giò. Surrounded by filth and despair, that fragrance transported me and showed me scent’s power to comfort.

AB: Who inspired you in fragrance?

DH: Jeremy Fragrance first, then later Steven from Redolessence, Brooklyn Fragrance Lover, Robes08 and Cubaknow. Each brought something unique to the table and helped inspire my channel, A Fragrant State of Mind. Jeremy especially paved the way for content creators.

AB: How did you start creating fragrance content?

DH: During COVID, after surgeries and mobility issues (I weighed over 500 pounds), my wife

suggested I find a hobby. I loved fragrances, so I grabbed a camera and started. I was lonely and depressed and needed something to lift me up.

AB: Did you expect a big audience?

DH: Not at all. I was thrilled when I'd get 100 views early on. Now I have 45,000 followers across all my channels. I used to joke that my early followers could at most fill the local high school, now they could fill a stadium.

AB: Has the fragrance community been supportive?

DH: Amazingly so. Despite my weight struggles, I’ve had very few negative comments. It truly feels like a family.

AB: Living in a small conservative town while making fragrance content ... what’s that like?

DH: People judge, but I always try to stay authentic. My many videos and podcasts show who I really am. I believe good choices and openness will naturally win over assumptions.

AB: People have spread rumors about you. How do you handle it?

DH: I stay honest and respectful. Some claims were absurd, like saying I lived in Ohio, flipped burgers, or that I sold fake perfumes. In reality, I live in New Hampshire and I’ve only occasionally shared bottles with friends or followers.

AB: Did the negativity ever make you want to quit?

DH: Never. I’m certain this is my path. I live by the principle that every stumbling block can become a stepping stone. 

AB: Why did your agency falter?

DH: In small towns, gossip snowballs and messages distort. People started leaving negative reviews which tanked my business. People don’t always have open, honest conversations. It’s part of the journey, and you have to be ready to pivot.

AB: How did losing your business hit you?

DH: Brutally. I'm in danger of losing my home and had to prioritize my pets’ needs over my own. But I see this as a hiccup, not the end.

AB: Your marriage ended as you chased growth. What happened?

DH: I got obsessed with metrics (views, likes, comments and milestones) and unintentionally neglected my wife. It was never my intention to make her feel overlooked.

AB: How has divorce impacted you?

DH: It’s devastating. You lose your best friend and support system, and life feels unreal. Some days I can’t sleep; other days I just want to sleep forever.

AB: You might soon lose everything, including your home, leaving you only with your car. How are you coping?

DH: Friends are helping for now, but what I really need is for my brand to earn enough to stand on its own. Right now, I’m just living moment to moment.

AB: Does that uncertainty make you rethink content creation?

DH: No, it actually pushes me to innovate and stay true to my work on A Fragrant State of Mind. I see it as an opportunity to dig deeper creatively.

AB: What keeps you going?

DH: Faith in God, my family, friends, and the fragrance community’s support. People who reach out and want to help mean a lot.

AB: What’s next for your fragrance journey?

DH: Stability, not riches. Enough to live safely and help others facing similar struggles. I’d love to work with a brand that shares those values.

AB: After everything from business loss, to divorce, to online attacks, how do you want people to see you?

DH: As authentic and relatable. Someone who makes good choices, loves deeply, and never takes blessings for granted. I want people to feel I’m someone they can trust. 

AB: What advice would you give to someone chasing a dream while life falls apart?

DH: Seek truth and faith. Take the first step, even if you're scared. Courage and fear go hand in hand. Just keep moving forward inch by inch.

AB: Is there a way readers can support you?

DH: Yes. I started a GoFundMe, Secure Housing and Health for Derek's Future, on GoFundMe. It would mean a lot to me if anyone reading this shares the link or donates to it. Thank you for your support.

To see Derek Hughes social accounts and videos, please visit 

https://mobilo.link/social_profile/FPdMiRM8kJOgOHFQiJEeLiLRxgB3.

The Dragon’s Blood and Frankincense Company in Richmond Hill Making Waves Worldwide

Ali K. Raza, owner of Raw Traders in Richmond Hill, ON, shows the jacket he wears while handling frankincense and other exotic incense products from around the world.

Meet Ali K. Raza, the young owner of one of the only North American wholesale suppliers of all-natural incense and essential oils. 

By Ali Bokhari 

“Come take a look at this!” my new friend exclaimed, proudly pointing at a plastic bag filled with what appeared to be off-white stones labelled “Sultan Select”.

“This is the highest-grade frankincense we carry, you can’t buy it unless you’re a good customer.”

“What’s a ‘good’ customer?”

“You have to be spending at least $10,000 in wholesale volumes with us each month to get a shot at buying it in wholesale quantities. Even then you cannot just walk up to my store and buy it. Right now we have a waiting list of more than 25 customers.”

I was with Ali K. Raza, owner of Raw Traders, one of a handful of artisan resin distilleries in North America. As a fan of my writing, he had invited me to tour his warehouse in an unassuming industrial plaza in the heart of Richmond Hill, Ontario, next to a mechanic’s shop. It was safe to say no one passing by would know Raza’s warehouse was filled to the hilt with precious tree sap and other exotic ingredients from far-off lands.

I wondered if I would ever have a shot at owning Sultan Select. Raza must have read my mind, or at least noticed how I was looking at it wistfully. “Small quantities are available in our online retail shop for everyone,” he smiled.

Raza handed over the bag of Sultan Select, and I

A packet of Sultan Select, the highest grade frankincense that Raw Traders sells. A single kg begins at C$400 and has a lengthy waiting list for wholesale  customers.

obediently bent my head and took a whiff. It smelled amazing and unlike anything I had smelled before… ultra clean, fresh and with a fizzy note that somehow reminded me of a bubbling can of Sprite. He casually mentioned that just 1 kg of the stuff started at C$400. 

Let me just say that while I’m a total fraghead and lover of all things related to frankincense, my trip to Raw Traders was the first time I had seen anything like this. It’s one thing simply to like frankincense, as I do, it’s an entirely different thing to dedicate one’s whole life to supplying it, as Raza was doing. I noticed he carefully put a small quantity of the Sultan Select in a plastic bag and set it aside for me, which in spite of my protests that it wasn't necessary he laughed off.

“Now look at this,” said Raza, bounding over to two

Ali K. Raza demonstrating how one of his distillers works.

spotlessly clean metal machines bristling with gauges that glinted in the light. “We use these to distill essential oils. There’s an 11-hour process to do it, which we must carefully record, plus another 90 minutes to clean the distillers properly.”

Raza’s easy smile and enthusiasm for his craft were infectious. Clearly, he was in his element, his passion unquestionable. Knowing his father Khushnood Raza is a regular for Friday prayers at my mosque who loves sharing his attars with the congregation, I asked Raza if there was a family connection to fragrances.

“Yes! It all started with my grandfather 75 years ago. His name was Ahmed Hasham Buoy Al Arakia, a legendary figure in the field of fragrances in Yemen. In 1938 he was the first person to get an export licence. That allowed him to ship materials from Yemen. His good name has proven invaluable in opening doors for me; his reputation has definitely helped a lot. As you know, my father loves fragrances, but not to the extent that he wanted to join my grandfather in his business.”

I asked what he would be doing if he wasn’t in this line of work.

“Probably I’d be a math teacher. I used to be a teaching assistant at the University of Toronto back in 2010. I love math as a universal language, but I hated dealing with uninterested students.”

Raza pulled out another box filled with deep red

Reza shows a bag filled with Dragon's Blood

pebbles. “This is Dragon’s Blood. It’s found in three places in the world: Socotra Island in Yemen, Sumatra in Indonesia, and Peru. This one is also very expensive stuff and is the highest grade there is: A++. It is a type of tree resin from a plant called Dracenea Cinnabari.” 

He pulled another bag containing what appeared to also be dark red pebbles. “This Dragon’s Blood is actually not a resin at all, it’s a berry from a very specific kind of tree in Sumatra, Daemonorops Draco. After the berry has been crushed, we add a very tiny percentage of a natural binder so it can be handled for burning.”

Before ever reaching Richmond Hill, the precious

The two men who row 90 km from Socotra Island to the Yemeni mainland

materials endure an arduous journey from far-off lands around the world. There are no easy one-way tickets. The Dragon’s Blood I was looking at must be picked and processed by a two-man team at Socotra Island, then rowed 90 km to the Yemeni mainland across the high seas. And that is only the beginning, there are many steps along the way before reaching Canada. Even sending money is not always easy, which is why Raza uses crypto currency to make payments.

Raza placed a small block of soap in bubble wrap and set it next to the packet of Sultan Select he had put aside earlier. “The frankincense that the wise men brought to baby Jesus was from Bethlehem. Because of the conflict there we are not able to procure it, but that is an exception; everything we sell comes from war torn lands. It just so happens that the best materials in the world come from places that have a lot of problems.”

Today Raza’s company is making a strong profit, but he declined to reveal the exact amount. His current success is a far cry from his early beginnings. Raza reckoned that from 2013 when he started to 2018, not only did he fail to turn a profit, but he lost between $30,000 and $40,000 annually. He spent those years quietly learning from his mistakes and picking up on the tricks of the trade, while building up trust with people in places where endemic corruption is a hard fact of life.

We stepped outside the warehouse into the crisp summer sun so that Raza could have a smoke, and we could drink the espresso he’d made for us.

I wondered how one could get into the frankincense business and asked my new friend what advice he would give to anyone interested in following in his footsteps. He paused, as though it was the first time he’d been asked the question.

“This profession has an almost 100% failure rate. People on the outside have no idea how difficult what we do is,” he said flatly at last, adding that he had to adjust to constant crises and stress, something that was difficult for him when he first started out. “By the laws of math, I shouldn’t be here. Simple mistakes can quickly get worse, but at the same time I can’t get too worried because emergencies are completely normal in this field.”

Raza said he believed his wholesale customers came to him because he was one of only a handful of people who could offer so many all-natural materials at his level of quality. 

“Raw Traders has three customers in Australia, two in Germany, one in England, and 10–15 in the US, but my best customer in the world is in Hamilton,” he confided as we returned inside, mentioning a city less than 90 minutes from Richmond Hill on a good day. “His name is Dan Riegler and he owns Apothecary’s Garden. I do all his oil extraction; he is the gold standard when it comes to natural perfumes, he's my favourite person in this business and I've learned so much from him.”

As Raza spoke, he kept pulling materials from bags

Reza sharing his favourite material, labdanum.

Palo santo sticks in a retail package.

sitting on shelves to let me sniff, all of which had the most lovely scent profiles, including vanilla (benzoin), woody (Palo Santo, the material Raza liked least), and leathery oud (labdanum, Raza's favourite: “I could smell it all day!”).

“At least 85% of my money is made in the wholesale market, with our peak season now [in September] to December. I don’t make my money in sales; I make it in how I buy products strategically.”

Seeing these actual active ingredients I had only heard about was fascinating. I knew most fragheads had never directly seen such ingredients, it was an experience I knew I would always remember.

As I turned to go, Raza met me at his cashier

station and handed over a bag filled with the things he had been setting aside since I walked in: Sultan Select frankincense, soap, incense sticks, Palo Santo sticks, essential oils, sandalwood incense cones and other goodies. I protested that it wasn’t necessary, but he was having none of it.

“I believe it’s a good sign that a business is doing well when it can do this. I’m so honoured that you stopped by, and I hope you can do it again soon.”

For more info about Raw Traders visit www.rawtradersinc.ca. Raw Traders is located at 395 Red Maple Road, Unit 1, Richmond Hill, Ontario, L4C 6P3, Canada. For questions call +1-416-871-5179 or email info@rawtradersinc.ca. 

𝐋𝐨𝐧𝐠 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐝: 𝐇𝐨𝐰 𝐈 𝐟𝐢𝐧𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 𝐝𝐢𝐬𝐜𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐃𝐢𝐨𝐫’𝐬 𝐥𝐞𝐠𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐄𝐚𝐮 𝐒𝐚𝐮𝐯𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐏𝐚𝐫𝐟𝐮𝐦 𝐚𝐟𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐦𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐡𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐬𝐞𝐚𝐫𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠⁣

 

𝘉𝘺 𝘈𝘭𝘪 𝘉𝘰𝘬𝘩𝘢𝘳𝘪⁣

"There's no such thing," said the saleswoman staring back at me.⁣

"Yes, there is," I insisted. "It's one of Dior's first men's fragrances. It's such a classic.⁣" 

I was flabbergasted she didn't know such an important fragrance. "I'm not talking about Sauvage. I'm talking about Eau Sauvage. Despite the name, they are not even closely related,"⁣ I added.

I was at the men's fragrance section at The Bay (RIP) last year, hoping to catch a sniff of Dior Eau Sauvage EDT for the first time.⁣

I personally never would buy fragrances from The Bay, which, until it went out of business this year, was Canada's oldest department store. Nor do I go to Shoppers (Canada's version of Walgreens or CVS), and even less likely to Sephora. The prices there simply don't make sense to me.⁣

However, there WAS a very good reason to be at The Bay, which was that, like many brick-and-mortar stores selling at retail, they were the best place to try many designer fragrances. As my experience showed, the people working there don't always know what they're talking about, but being able to try the frags more than makes up for it.⁣

Finally, the lady seemed to realize I would not go away. "Follow me," she said, taking me to her colleague in a section of the cosmetics department that was all Dior. Dior Lady smiled as I repeated my request.⁣

"Eau Sauvage? But that's such an old fragrance," she said, wrinkling her nose. "You should try Sauvage instead. It's very popular."⁣

"Yes, so popular that everyone wears it. It's so overdone," I replied with more than a little exasperation.⁣

"You should try this one," she said, taking out a tester of Sauvage Eau Forte. "It's new."⁣

"I don't care if Sauvage is popular. I just want to smell Eau Sauvage!" I finally snapped.⁣

Staring at me for a second with an awkward pause, she finally pulled out a crystal bottle of what I had spent five minutes asking for. ⁣

The frosted crystal Eau Sauvage EDT bottle glinted under the harsh fluorescent lights. Diagonal lines in the glass hid fingerprints. A narrow ribbon wrapped around the bottle, with the name of the house and fragrance being in the middle. I was immediately smitten.⁣

Dior Lady spritzed two sprays on the back of my hand. I raised it to my nose and took a deep sniff. ⁣

Honestly, my immediate impression at the time was it was one of the best openings I had ever smelled.⁣

Lemon, bergamot, and something herbal, which I later learned was basil, unfurled. It did not smell floral exactly, but definitely had a complex floral element. Peeking out underneath it all was a clean and smooth vetiver, musk, and something ambery.⁣

It smelled utterly grown-up and utterly classic. Dior Eau Sauvage EDT reminded me of a different time and place, long before the Internet, when men wore white shirts with ties and drove gasoline-powered cars to 9-5 jobs and smelled put together even for a simple outing to malls like this one on the weekend, and only bought fragrances from stores like The Bay.⁣

I walked out of the store and drove home, constantly smelling my hand. If only it lasted longer on my skin. After a few hours, it was almost gone. Still, I wanted more.⁣

That's how I learned of Eau Sauvage Parfum.⁣

𝐅𝐢𝐧𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐄𝐚𝐮 𝐒𝐚𝐮𝐯𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐏𝐚𝐫𝐟𝐮𝐦: 𝐌𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐈𝐦𝐩𝐨𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐛𝐥𝐞⁣

Going home and looking up the EDT on Fragrantica to see what people thought of it, I noticed another suggested fragrance that I had not seen earlier. It was my first glimpse of Eau Sauvage Parfum.⁣

I read that Dior came out with a richer, much darker, far better-performing, more resinous version of the EDT in 2012. In 2017, Christian Dior made major changes to the formula, essentially dropping myrrh, a resin often burned for incense with historical importance (recall the tale of the three wise men visiting Jesus, one of them bearing myrrh). This 2017 update brought it closer to the original EDT.⁣

Excitedly, I started searching for the fragrance. And that's when I realized that, where I live in Canada, finding a bottle of Eau Sauvage Parfum might be a lot harder than I initially realized.⁣

Here in the Toronto area, if you want the best prices for brand new in-box fragrances, then you can either order from fragrancebuy.ca, order from or visit Maximum Fragrance in Mississauga, ON, or order from or visit The Fragrance Shop in Newmarket, ON. I'm sure there are many other Greater Toronto Area discounter boutiques I haven't visited, DS Fragrances in Mississauga, for example.⁣

Unfortunately, when I looked up my three go-to companies, none of them carried what I wanted. Frustrated, I looked up big department stores, however, not even those had it. I even looked at Amazon and eBay, but whatever bottles I found there were fantastically overpriced. Finally, I visited Dior's site. It was not there.⁣

Digging for info late into the night, I heard whispers that Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum had been discontinued. Some folks said it may still be available in the US and EU, but here in Canada, it is close to impossible to find.⁣

Frustrated and saddened, I thought there was no way I could find a bottle. At that time, I did not want to search in the grey market, which is filled with fakes.⁣

With a sigh, I swiped away the window on my phone and turned over to sleep.⁣

I had no idea how wrong I was.⁣

𝐅𝐎𝐔𝐍𝐃 𝐈𝐓!⁣

As mentioned, I have two go-to stores in the GTA where I frequently like to shop, my favourite one being Maximum Fragrance at Rockwood Mall in Mississauga. I was visiting this store about six months ago when I had a shock.⁣

Remembering Eau Sauvage EDT, I had decided I'd like to take a sniff again. There were plenty of bottles of it. The store sells all kinds of perfumes, including rare and discontinued fragrances, so I knew the EDT would be there.

I was subconsciously looking at the EDT when I noticed something a little different. There it was, on the end, a pristine, brand new, never-opened box of Eau Sauvage Parfum. It had not been listed online, it was being sold in the stores only.⁣

I immediately told the clerk helping me that I wanted to try the Parfum. Unfortunately, there was no tester for this one, he said. Undeterred, I asked him for the price.⁣

Let's just say it was a lot more money than most people would pay for a fragrance, even frag heads like me. Crestfallen, I left the store, bowed but not broken. I swore that I would make it my mission to buy it once I could, even though it seemed next to impossible now.⁣

𝖲𝗈𝗆𝖾𝗍𝗂𝗆𝖾𝗌 𝖽𝗋𝖾𝖺𝗆𝗌 𝖽𝗈 𝖼𝗈𝗆𝖾 𝗍𝗋𝗎𝖾⁣

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐮𝐲𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐞𝐱𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐞⁣

As the months passed, I continuously monitored the Eau Sauvage Parfum. It sat undisturbed, apparently unnoticed by store patrons. Meanwhile, I transitioned into a new career doing landscaping for homes, which not only was personally much more enjoyable, it paid very well too.⁣

I started buying higher-quality fragrances than I ever had before, until one day I realized it was time to get what I had thought of so many times over many months.⁣

As an in-store-only fragrance, Maximum Fragrance did not allow Afterpay or other forms of online payment in installments for the Eau Sauvage Parfum. Also, it meant I could not use online promotional codes. But they really did me right.⁣

I emailed the company's sales team at the time of an online-only promotion and explained the situation. They sent me an email granting me special one-time permission to use a 10% off promotional code. I was so happy that I decided to also buy Gucci Intense Oud (review on this frag another time), which I sampled and did love.⁣

As I handed over my hard-earned money the following day, I felt so much emotion and thankfulness. Not long ago, I had a hard time even buying cheap clones. Then I was (and still am) buying decants to try before I buy. Now I'm able to buy not one but two exquisite designers without Afterpay. But would Eau Sauvage Parfum smell as good as I hoped?⁣

Smiling, I hurried home to open the boxes. I wanted to experience this intimate moment with my frags 1:1.⁣

𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐢𝐭 𝐬𝐦𝐞𝐥𝐥𝐞𝐝 𝐥𝐢𝐤𝐞⁣

Once home, I carefully opened both boxes and got ready to start with the Eau Sauvage. The bottle looked like the EDT, but with a black ribbon around it with the name in silver. I pulled off the snazzy black magnetic cap and sprayed once on each side of my neck.⁣

GOOD GOD it was strong! I reminded myself to only apply one spray next time and on my chest instead, a strategy that indeed worked in subsequent wearings.⁣

Such a complex fragrance that I immediately knew was a masterpiece, one with scintillatingly rich and resinous notes. As mentioned, the 2012 version was known for its resinous myrrh, but to my nose, the 2017 version had no shortage of resin. ⁣

Off the top, I got citron, bergamot, and an abundance of lavender. As far as the opening went, Eau Sauvage Parfum did not immediately strike me as beautiful so much as elegant and striking, if that makes sense. It is certainly masculine and straddling the line between classic and modern, much more than the EDT, in my mind, for sure. This is absolutely not a fragrance designed⁣ haphazardly, it is very much expertly and intentionally blended.

The drydown, though, took the story to an altogether higher level in my mind. What an absolutely world-class scent profile and niche quality to my nose. Elemi resin emerged, along with vetiver, cinnamon, and star anise. These notes make the Parfum entirely more spicy, but not so much that it's a cold-weather fragrance only.⁣

The performance is also perfect. I wore it for 12+ hours, and after a dynamite and dynamic 3 hours, my scent bubble continued to project moderately for another 6 hours. Great sillage too, I was still getting gorgeous whiffs of it 12 hours later every time I moved.⁣

This is an absolutely formal and special occasion fragrance in my mind. It is so unusual and complex, as well as bold, that it stands out from the countless sweet vanilla and cinnamon bombs. If not worn with nice clothes or sprayed more than 1–2 times, it would absolutely wear me instead of me wearing it.⁣

𝐋𝐚𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐠𝐡𝐭𝐬⁣

It's the middle of summer, and my parents are visiting Toronto from Chicago. With one spray on my chest, I chose to wear Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum to honour them and remember our moments together fondly. I have many other high-end fragrances to choose from, so I think that's saying a lot.⁣

I do think that while this fragrance is extremely difficult to find in Canada, you might more easily find it in other markets like the US and especially the EU. Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum is definitely a 10/10 fragrance as far as I'm concerned, and I don't have anything else like it in my collection. ⁣

If you like classic men's perfumery with a modern twist, then get it, you won't go wrong. ⁣

It's definitely worth the wait.

From Sunnah to Signature Scent: Islam’s Fragrant Legacy

How a 1,400-year-old tradition of perfume wearing by Muslims shaped cultures, modern perfumery and even Guerlain legend Thierry Wasser’s philosophy

By Ali Bokhari

One of the biggest drivers behind wearing fragrances in the world, whether one wants to believe in a religion or not, is undoubtedly Islam, a faith followed by more than 1.8 billion. 

I can already hear the howling of some, angry that I'm bringing up what to their minds is a dangerous, destructive and divisive topic like religion, especially Islam. Some of these critics might even be Muslims lacking confidence to say what they think and stand up for their identity confidently. The shock, the horror! 

Look, I'm going to say some stuff you may have never heard. I'm a proud and observant Muslim, a person who tries to follow Islam to the best of his ability. There's a reason I'm bringing this up that has to do with fragrances. I'm hoping we can all chill and have better understanding and respect for an ancient community as well as see that without Islam it's entirely possible modern perfumery would be unrecognizable today. With 1 out of every 5 people on Earth being Muslim, what people from this group says matters.

Islam as a way of life

Unlike some faiths, Islam is a religion that is not just a series of beliefs or ideas, but a way of life. Literally every moment of observant Muslims' lives is governed by practices and ideals. These can range from everything like rules governing eating food with the right hand, how to pray 5 obligatory prayers a day, encouragement to smile, and how we dress, to broad principles that are flexible for different times and places. 

While the details on some of these things might be disputed, this concept of the religion being about practice as well as belief is pretty much unanimous. Even people who are non-religuous or atheists who grow up in Muslim lands are often deeply impacted by this concept.

In Islam there are two main sources for the beliefs and practices, 1. the Qur'an, which is the holy book of Islam, which has been uncorrupted and is the same text from when it was revealed more than 1,400 years ago, and 2., the recorded sayings and practices of the Prophet Muhammad, also known as his "Sunnah".

Muslim scholars of religions do discuss and debate what are the correct beliefs and practices as covered by the sources in the religion, but there is direct evidence that being clean and smelling handsome or beautiful is very important and the sign of a good Muslim. To smell good is one aspect of Islam that is virtually universal amongst all Muslims.

Guidance on fragrances

Muslims are directly encouraged to wear clean and fresh clothing and to smell good while praying, to the extent that pretty much all Muslims believe to do so is meritorious and increases the reward that God, who we call Allah, blesses us with. This is all orthodox and pretty much unanimously agreed by the major Muslim denominations, whether Sunni, Shia, Salafi or Sufi. At a time when most people in Europe considered bathing dangerous and that lice were "God's pearls" in the darkness of the middle ages, Muslims were on the cutting edge not only of fragrances but all of civilization. To wear frags was not a fluke of history but directly based on Islamic injunctions.

There is a recorded tradition in which the Prophet Muhammad is to have said, "Truly Allah is beautiful and loves beauty", and another in which he said "cleanliness is from faith". He also is reported in numerous traditions to have said that perfume was one of his favorite things. In other traditions he is reported to have discouraged eating garlic before meeting others, as the smell could bother them. 

The question might come up about specifically what type of perfumes are recommended in Islam. Single note fragrances such as musk, florals or sandlewood were what most people wore in the early days of Islam and throughout much of history until relatively recently. Some Muslims choose to wear these to this day, however to the best of my knowledge any kind of fragrance that smells good is highly recommended. 

Wastefulness and unchecked materialism is considered reprehensible in Islam, with a notable exception made for fragrances. Fragrances are one of the few things in Islam that is not only considered acceptable to splurge on but is a good thing to do, provided it doesn't severely negatively impact oneself or others, especially a Muslim's family.

Islam and fragrances today

All of these and many more statements have had a deep impact on Muslims throughout more than 1,400 years, and in turn the world. Just ask Guerlain perfumer legend Thierry Wasser. 

In an interview Wasser mentioned the impact that Muslim theology had on his own ideas about fragrances. A friend told him that by smelling good and pleasing Allah's creation through it, it is a form of pleasing the Creator as well. Wasser said he was very impressed by his friend's point, which directly influenced his own thoughts about perfumery. It is this philosophy about what fragrances should do for others as well as the self which may explain why many fragrances made even today in Muslim lands put an emphasis on performance, especially projection.

In 2025, Islam is an international religion with many Western countries having large and influential Muslim populations. People in the West travel to and through Muslim countries like the UAE, especially Dubai. Just as Grasse in France has been a center for perfumery, today Dubai is equally relevant to the fragrance community and in certain quarters even more so. 

With so much interaction, cultural exchanges are also at an all time high, especially with young people who are not threatened so much as their elders by others' views and beliefs. Even many Western brands have woken up to this reality with some now regularly producing "oud" perfumes for worldwide consumption, and regular special releases in places as far-flung as Istanbul, Dubai and Singapore.

It would be a mistake to think just because the most widely recognized Middle Eastern fragrance houses in the west only clone Western fragrances, such as Lattafa and Armaf, that that is the extent of Arabian perfumery. While some high end frag houses like Turkey's Hacivat and Oman's Amouage are relatively well known in frag com for producing fragrances worth hundreds of dollars, there are hundreds of other excellent companies that are still completely unknown in the West. I admit that this kind of perfume does not have much of a market,  yet in places such as the United States or Germany, marking an exciting and much unexplored area of perfume that Western frag heads are just waking up to.

Some different practices in Muslim majority countries 

With 50+ Muslim majority countries and 1.8 billion followers of the faith, there are literally tens of thousands of rich cultures. While Muslims worldwide use spray fragrances, here are a few common practices that are quite different compared to norms in mainstream Western cultures.

Especially popular with people in the Persian Gulf region, many hang their clothes over smoking incense to deeply perfume themselves. They call such incense by many different names, but "bakhoor" is the most common. If you walk through shopping malls in the region you'll likely see smoke with a beautiful rich fragrance wafting in the air from different shops, especially perfume stores.

People in the East tend to use sticks of incense more than bakhoor, in South Asia especially North India and Pakistan it's commonly called agarbati, but you see the same idea behind it, there is a notion that perfuming space is important. Virtually across the Muslim world people use these different kinds of incense to perfume their homes, especially if a guest is visiting or a major celebration is taking place.

In many countries using roller sticks filled with pure fragrance oil is the norm, these can be extremely expensive with a 1 ml bottle costing tens of thousands of dollars, but usually people wear them because at the other end of the spectrum they are generally far less expensive. With these sticks the projection is not always amazing but the longevity most often is. 

You can easily pick up bakhoor and oil rollers for a few dollars in most big cities. Search on Google for Islamic book and clothing stores, these almost always carry these scents, as well as incense burners. 

Hope this article was useful, any questions?

Ali Bokhari is a passionate perfume lover who was a journalist and corporate communications manager for 20+ years before recently changing careers and entering the world of gardening. Follow him on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/aatifbokhari.

Image created by Ali Bokhari using ChatGPT.