Tuesday, May 20, 2025

Beloved Fragrances Under Siege by Brutal US Tariffs

How US tariffs are driving up perfume prices, disrupting supply chains and forcing fragrance brands to make painful decisions

By Ali Bokhari


They huff and puff and blow apart the best-laid plans of perfume companies selling in the United States, resulting in higher prices for fragrance fans across America. Yes, I’m talking about the US tariffs. There’s nothing theoretical about them, and they’re already biting hard.


What tariffs really mean


Starting in early 2025, the US government expanded the scope and classification of certain imports, including luxury goods like fragrances and even bottle components, under the banner of economic fairness, trade leverage or good old-fashioned protectionism. 

Tariffs, for anyone who snoozed through high school econ (I know I did!), are taxes slapped on imported goods by the government. In theory, they’re supposed to protect domestic industries or act as bargaining chips in trade disputes. In practice? At least in the short- and medium-term, they’re a financial body slam.


Look, having grown up in a small town in the American Midwest that suffered mightily when its factories closed up and moved away, I would love nothing more than to see American businesses do well domestically, but the way the tariffs are being done is broadly counter-productive. It hits especially hard for industries in the beauty space, like fragrance which depend almost entirely on delicate and long-established global supply chains. These costs land long before a bottle hits a shelf. New chains cannot easily replace old ones, especially with complex products like fragrances that often require ingredients from far-flung locations around the world with no American alternative.

US Customs doesn’t care how beautiful the juice is or how lovingly crafted the cap—if it crosses a US border, it is likely to get taxed, and heavily at that. Fragrances, especially those with often imported ingredients like jasmine, rose, patchouli and benzoin are already seeing price hikes, and both international and domestic perfume makers relying on these materials are feeling the pinch.

What makes it worse? The US tariffs have been incredibly erratic. One day China and Vietnam are hit with 50 percent tariffs. A week later, China’s rate jumps to 145 percent, rocking global markets and wiping out billions from American 401(k)s heavily dependent upon tech stocks that until that point were seemingly on a relentless upward trajectory. Then suddenly, rates drop to 30 percent for 90 days. There is no explanation for what is happening and no plan that anyone can see. It's just chaos, the bane of businesses requiring stability and a clear path forward.

Without any reasoning shared by the government or a roadmap for how countries can avoid these tariffs—businesses of all sizes are left scrambling, trying to guess how much they’ll pay next quarter just to get their supplies in the door. And as we will see, fragrance companies are particularly vulnerable.


A CEO spells it out


Alex Wiltschko, CEO and founder of Osmo
“The average fragrance house may have hundreds or thousands of ingredients that are
regularly restocked, that go into tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands of customer SKUs, and these ingredients can cross multiple borders before arriving in customers' hands,” said Alex Wiltschko, CEO and founder of fragrance research company Osmo, in an April 8 article in Glossy.

French fragrance manufacturer Interparfums, which manages brands like Coach, Jimmy Choo, Montblanc, and Lacoste, is raising US prices by 6 to 7 percent starting August 1 due to 10 percent US tariffs on imported goods. The US makes up 38 percent of Interparfums’ revenue, their single largest market. The company says it can weather the storm, but those unexpected and extra costs could stretch well into 2025, totaling millions of euros.

Fragrance fans may hate to hear the r-word, but reformulation is the quiet storm brewing on the horizon. When companies are squeezed, they don’t just eat the cost, they are forced to get creative. That can mean swapping premium ingredients for cheaper alternatives. Perfume is a business, after all. If it stops making money, reformulation is always an option. This means fragrances that can be thinner, perform worse and just plain smell different than they once did.

For indie creators, the situation is even worse. These are the people who sparked the modern niche fragrance boom—artists, risk-takers, and visionaries. But now they’re stuck. Raise prices and risk losing customers or cut corners and risk losing your identity. Some are even looking into moving production overseas just to sidestep US entry taxes, but that comes with a whole new set of risks.


Tariffs hit an American fragrance company


George Zaharoff, owner of Zaharoff Fragrances
George Zaharoff is a perfect example of how hard tariffs are hitting small- and mid-sized
American businesses. “I have tried everything in my power so I wouldn’t write this message, but there’s nothing more I can do,” he wrote on May 6 to members of the ZED Lounge, a Facebook group for fans of his brand.

Having spoken with Zaharoff personally, I’ve seen how much care he puts into every detail of his fragrances. Customers don’t just love his scents—they rave about the man behind them. So, when Zaharoff says he’s out of options, trust me: it’s not marketing spin. It’s a mayday.

“There’s one very special company that makes metal caps and plates [for Zaharoff bottles], each made individually by hand using a method practiced for centuries involving applying colored enamel paints to the metal surface of our plates using a delicate brush,” he explained. “When we were about to ship the components to us here in the States, I was hit with an additional 145 percent duty in the low six figures.”

Yes, you read that right: 145 percent. Imagine budgeting for a shipment and then getting slapped with more than double the expected cost, all because someone in a Washington back office reclassified your perfume cap as a “decorative metal item of significant import value”. Next week, it could be something else entirely. It is not clear exactly who is calling the shots or what their reasoning is in levying tariffs.

The blow wasn’t just financial. Zaharoff said the surprise tariff threw off production for both existing and upcoming releases, jeopardizing Mother’s Day deliveries. “It was heartbreaking for me,” he confided.

"If the goods are on their way to me and then the tariff changes higher, I have to pay that," said Zaharoff on May 20 in response to a request for an update. "If it goes away, then I get the credit ... [but] only before it clears through customs."

Zaharoff's brand, like millions of other small companies, is facing a major reckoning, but it has a lot going for it, including loyal fans and strong momentum from years of careful planning. Not everyone is so lucky, even if they have done their homework to date, and plenty of American companies are watching their delicate supply chains unravel. 

To my mind, the tarrifs are a lot like getting your luggage tossed around by airport security; only instead of a busted zipper, you’re left with a six-figure bill. Who do you complain to when it happens? Where do you go for help? And what's the alternative when foreign supplies are needed and there is no American alternative at hand?


What all this means for you and me


Tariffs aren’t just supplier markups. They’re sudden, stiff and non-negotiable. Imagine yourself getting blindsided with a bill you didn’t know was coming, right at the border. Economists have long warned that tariffs are a blunt and dangerous financial instrument, and for good reason. Now tariffs have made a major and unexpected comeback, a sucker punch that knocks the wind out of you the next time you go to buy your favorite fragrance that was impacted.

Qazi Faisal, Perfume Sales Associate
“Due to the tariffs, retailers are having to pay more to import fragrances. We are paying 25
percent more now than we did before,” said Qazi Faisal, a perfume sales associate at Chicago Fragrances, which has two shops at Woodfield Mall in Schaumburg, Illinois. “So, we’ve also been forced to raise fragrance retail prices by 25 percent.”

I asked Faisal if his suppliers, clients, or retail partners had mentioned the tariffs to him.

“Yes,” he said. “All of them.”

Customers are hesitant now. They’re not complaining about the quality of the fragrance—in fact it’s not about the juice at all. When prices jump 25 percent overnight, especially with luxury goods like fragrances, people notice. Faisal explained that he saw fewer customers buying and deciding to wait for things to settle. 

In an industry driven by impulse and emotion, hesitation is poison, but Faisal said that while the situation was cloudy, he could see a silver lining.

"We are actually making more money on the weekends. In department stores the average cost of a men's fragrance is $180 and well above $220 for women. In our stores the average prices of designer fragrances, for example with Valentino, is $120-140," he explained. 

"People do not want to pay crazy amounts like in the department stores, so because of how tariffs are impacting the department stores while we are seeing less business on weekdays, we are actually seeing more business on weekends."


Holding our breath


The next time you see a price hike on your favorite fragrance or find that a beloved bottle is suddenly and unexpectedly out of stock with no end in sight, remember all that huffing and puffing might not be the brand’s fault: Uncle Sam could be breathing down their neck, forcing them to pay up.

Tariffs aren’t just numbers on a spreadsheet or political talking points. They’re real, messy and landing squarely in the middle of an industry built on beauty, precision and passion. For fragrance lovers, the scent of the times isn’t rose or oud, it’s uncertainty. 

Until there's a clear path forward to get us out of this mess, we'll all just be holding our collective breath.

Sunday, April 6, 2025

Guerlain Vetiver EDT: A Green Masterpiece For Every Gentleman



Exclusive by Ali Bokhari / April 6, 2025

There are moments in a fragrance lover’s life when something clicks. A sudden recognition. A quietly dawning awareness that what you’re smelling is not merely good—it’s foundational. Guerlain Vetiver EDT did that to me. A fragrance I’d sampled in passing before but never truly gave it a full wear, never let breathe on my skin and tell its story. That changed this week.

I decided I wanted something lasting. Something beautiful. So I bought two Guerlain fragrances: L’Homme Idรฉal EDP and Vetiver EDT. I unboxed them and let them speak.

Vetiver has held a special place in my collection for some time—it’s a scent that grabs you and doesn’t let go. I love how its character shifts with its origin: Haitian vetiver is soft and sweet, like a gentle whisper of earth; Indian vetiver is bold and earthy, packing a punch; and Java vetiver is crisp and green, like a walk through a dewy forest. Each variety tells a different story, which is why vetiver fascinates me. 

I’ve reviewed many Middle Eastern clone houses for I Fragrance Magazine. I know the punch, the projection, the sillage arms race well. I know the arguments that one need not spend a lot of money to smell fantastic.

But Guerlain—this house speaks in a different dialect. And Vetiver EDT? It whispered elegance. With confidence. From a maker that sports 200 years of history serving French aristocracy. And with no need to shout.

I realize Guerlain has EDP and Parfum versions of Vetiver, but I decided to buy the original EDT, a modern classic if there ever was one.


THE BOX


The Guerlain box is functional,


there is nothing wild or controversial about it. There isn’t even the kind of holographic sticker of authenticity one almost expects these days from Middle Eastern fragrance houses. It’s just a lightweight cardboard paper box with the house and fragrance names on the front and an address and batch code on the bottom.

Compared with the box, however, the bottle, cap and atomizer were the first sign I was holding a real treasure.


BOTTLE, CAP AND ATOMIZER


Sliding the square heavy glass Guerlain Vetiver EDT bottle from its sleeve was an experience in


understated elegance the likes of which I have rarely seen at its price point. As a reviewer who has seen many bottles, I believe it’s easy to get these elements wrong. Cutting corners to make an extra buck is so common, so it was a bit of a revelation to find Guerlain did it in exactly the way all fragrance houses should.

The bottle and simple label at its center was exceptionally crisp and minimalist, highlighting the light green juice inside. In keeping with many other recent releases by Guerlain, it sported the same square shape in keeping with the French company’s current uniform brand identity.

The heavy black plastic cap on top sported



Guerlain’s crest on the outside and inside. The cap snapped on and off the bottle with a satisfying and loud click. I could easily hold the bottle by the cap when snapped on. Simple, well-designed and of the best quality I’ve ever owned, the highest praise I can give the cap is that every fragrance company should aspire to offer the same level of refinement.

Now we come to the atomizer. Like the cap, the


highly polished metal button sported Guerlain’s crest on the touch point on top. Matching the cap, the nozzle appeared to be of black plastic and entirely unremarkable. What was remarkable was the quality and quantity of the spray jet, of course pressurized.

Entirely modern while connected with many past masterpieces by the French house, I felt I was but the latest in a long line of countless admirers, and that there would be many more long after I would be gone and forgotten.

The bottle design evoked expectations that the juice inside— which is after all, really the most important thing— would be nothing less than great.

Would the juice make my purchase a slam dunk, or was my selection doomed to be just another pretty face?


FIRST IMPRESSIONS


The night I brought my bottles home, I couldn’t resist spraying a little of each on my hands. Forget the L’Homme Idรฉal EDP for now, it’s an utterly gorgeous cherry-almond-suede fragrance that I’m so glad I bought. It’s the subject of another, upcoming review, one that is well-deserved.

But the Vetiver EDT? Honestly, I was smitten at first sniff. Everything about it was what I wanted: a grassy, clean fragrance with barbershop vibes, utterly versatile and appropriate for any occasion.

For me, vetiver is not just another note—it’s the foundation of a fragrance, grounding and elevating it. Its smoky, leathery undertones lend sophistication while feeling both rugged and refined. I’m drawn to how it gives a scent depth and character, and it’s this versatility, along with the memories it evokes, that keeps me coming back to vetiver.

I wondered if I was getting carried away. So I decided to put it to an extreme test the next day, one that would put its versatility to one of the most extreme situations.

The next day’s forecast, for once, was exactly what I wanted. A windy cold day, but time to go gardening. Vetiver is a note that I’ve observed often blossoms in rainy conditions.

What I found was completely in line with my prediction. After spraying Vetiver EDT on my hoodie’s shoulders and hood, I sprayed twice behind each ear. Throughout the next hours I stayed outside, I observed my fragrance quietly projecting, even over the junipers, cypress and pines I worked with. I wore a balaclava, which although eventually wet could not drown out the freshness, the utter green emanating. It lasted about five hours from beginning to end, and would have surely lasted longer in better weather conditions.

I needed a better idea of how Vetiver EDT would perform under more normal conditions. The following day I applied delicate little sprays of the fragrance all around my neck, one on each sweater shoulder and on my back. This is when I was finally convinced about the complexity of the fragrance and recognized many subtleties I had not noticed earlier.

Vetiver EDT immediately opened with a gorgeous and herbal green vetiver balanced by fresh citrus, damp earthiness and resins. There was a whispering yet subtly radiant animalic element due to the leather and civetone—exactly the right amount to add a touch of warmth. I was pleased to note Guerlain’s classic incense and smoke were there in the background. It never moved into the forefront, yet it lent an almost mystically enchanting echo of frankincense. 


PERFORMANCE


Vetiver EDT projects off my skin about three feet for the first 2–3 hours, following which it shrinks to about a foot until it vanishes off my skin 6–7 hours later. When applying the fragrance to clothing it gets even better. After eight hours I was still noticing delicate whiffs off my clothes. Even after all that time, the fragrance is still deeply green and clean with a hint of soil.

While vetiver is the star, as it should be, the other materials used all make an appearance, yet they are so well-blended that it’s sometimes difficult to tell notes apart—such is the quality of Guerlain’s blend. It was very easy to smell off my sweater as though I had sprayed it only minutes earlier.


THE FINAL WORD




Guerlain Vetiver EDT is classic, masculine and elegant. It makes no attempt to follow the pack, yet it is still so relevant. This is a house that doesn’t fumble in an attempt to make people like it. Rather, it is a formula that is inherently likeable. There is a big difference between the two.

While this formula may not attract the youngest of fragrance enthusiasts looking for yet another trendy gourmand, I think males who are millennials or older will appreciate Guerlain for its 200 years heritage of defining masculinity through its carefully composed creations for French aristocracy.

Guerlain Vetiver EDT is an exquisitely versatile daytime fragrance suited for any season while there is light out, except perhaps the harshest cold weather of North American winters. I have no problem whatsoever recommending it to anyone who wants to smell like a classic gentleman who wants to be taken seriously.

This fragrance doesn’t clamor for attention. It earns it. Guerlain Vetiver EDT is not a trend. It’s a tradition that I always plan to have in my collection. And as far as I’m concerned, it’s one worth reviving—one elegant green puff at a time.

Friday, March 28, 2025

Behind the Scents: The Harsh Reality of Selling Perfume


By Ali Bokhari 

Most fragrance lovers might assume that selling high-end perfumes is a sophisticated, glamorous endeavor-perhaps akin to living inside a luxury magazine ad. They see the gleaming bottles and the polished counters, and they imagine an existence draped in elegance and effortless profit. If only that was the case.

The truth? Unless you're one of the lucky few capitalizing on boatloads of customers that have no idea what a fair price is, selling perfumes as a small independent brick-and-mortar retailer is less about luxury and more about surviving on razor-thin margins, constant stress and the occasional existential crisis. I was not aware of any of this when, for a short time I considered opening my own store. Thank goodness, I thought of contacting retailers first and getting their advice before jumping in.

Small retail stores are caught in a relentless squeeze between aggressive discounters and powerful manufacturers who call the shots. If that sounds fun, wait until you hear the part about how much it costs to even get in the game. Spoiler: it's a lot.

๐Ÿ”— READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE HERE!:

https://ifragranceofficial.com/the-harsh-reality-of-selling-perfume/

Friday, March 14, 2025

Liquid Brun vs. Althair: Can a $45 Dupe Beat the $300 Original?


I looked at the fragrance shop clerk in shock, staring down at the 125 ml orange Parfums de Marly bottle as if it had burned my hand.

Liquid Brun smells exactly like PDM's Althair!" I somehow managed to get out. "Correction," my friend told me, laughing, "Liquid Brun is Althair!" 

OK, it definitely sounds like hyperbole, but as of 48 hours ago, I am a newly converted believer that a $45 USD Fragrance World clone can be equally as good-or better?-than the original priced in many places at $328 USD.

READ THE WHOLE ARTICLE:



Saturday, March 8, 2025

REVIEW: JPG Le Male Elixir Absolu










Published on I Fragrance on March 8, 2025

Look, I know some folks will come for me for questioning whether or not Jean Paul Gaultier's newest Le Male is a must buy, but my job isn’t to sugarcoat—it’s to be fair, to not pull punches and to tell it like it is. 

If you’re thinking of blind-buying JPG's newest release or know someone who is, you need to read this first. 

๐Ÿ”— Get the full review here: https://ifragranceofficial.com/jpg-le-male-elixir-absolu-review/

Tuesday, February 18, 2025

Refresh of 247 Labs' social media marketing

247 Labs, a web development and IT services firm based in Toronto, was active online for 13 years but struggled to stand out in a crowded field of competitors. I guided the organization to highlight its services and experience in an edgy and humorous way that played off of current events and popular memes. I also directed the team to use the company logo in a consistent way, which had not been done up to this point. 

Check out the following examples and let me know if you think I succeeded!











Wednesday, February 5, 2025

REVIEW: Luxury or Budget? LV Imagination Battles Aqua Dubai







๐๐”๐๐‹๐ˆ๐’๐‡๐„๐ƒ! ๐‘๐ž๐š๐ ๐ฆ๐ฒ ๐ซ๐ž๐ฏ๐ข๐ž๐ฐ ๐จ๐Ÿ ๐‹๐จ๐ฎ๐ข๐ฌ ๐•๐ฎ๐ข๐ญ๐ญ๐จ๐ง ๐ˆ๐ฆ๐š๐ ๐ข๐ง๐š๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง ๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐€๐ฅ ๐‡๐š๐ซ๐š๐ฆ๐š๐ข๐ง ๐€๐ฆ๐›๐ž๐ซ ๐Ž๐ฎ๐ ๐€๐ช๐ฎ๐š ๐ƒ๐ฎ๐›๐š๐ข. ๐ˆ'๐ฆ ๐ฌ๐จ ๐ฉ๐ซ๐จ๐ฎ๐, ๐ฐ๐ก๐š๐ญ ๐๐จ ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ ๐ญ๐ก๐ข๐ง๐ค?


๐˜“๐˜ถ๐˜น๐˜ถ๐˜ณ๐˜บ ๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ ๐˜‰๐˜ถ๐˜ฅ๐˜จ๐˜ฆ๐˜ต? ๐˜“๐˜ ๐˜๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜จ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜ข๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ฐ๐˜ฏ ๐˜‰๐˜ข๐˜ต๐˜ต๐˜ญ๐˜ฆ๐˜ด ๐˜ˆ๐˜ฒ๐˜ถ๐˜ข ๐˜‹๐˜ถ๐˜ฃ๐˜ข๐˜ช


I was driving to my local Louis Vuitton store to try LV's blockbuster fragrance, Imagination-which I had never smelled before-telling myself for the umpteenth time to stay cool.


My destination was Yorkdale Mall, one of Toronto's most upscale shopping centers, and my mission was to compare two heavyweights: ๐‹๐• ๐ˆ๐ฆ๐š๐ ๐ข๐ง๐š๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง and one of its currently most talked about clones, ๐€๐ฅ ๐‡๐š๐ซ๐š๐ฆ๐š๐ข๐ง ๐€๐ฆ๐›๐ž๐ซ ๐Ž๐ฎ๐ ๐€๐ช๐ฎ๐š ๐ƒ๐ฎ๐›๐š๐ข. 


There's something irresistible about fresh fragrances. Clean, bright and uplifting, they evoke the serenity of morning dew and the crispness of a cool breeze. As a longtime fan of freshies, I've tested everything from budget staples like Davidoff Cool Water to niche masterpieces. So, when I had the chance to compare ๐‹๐จ๐ฎ๐ข๐ฌ ๐•๐ฎ๐ข๐ญ๐ญ๐จ๐ง ๐ˆ๐ฆ๐š๐ ๐ข๐ง๐š๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง, a luxurious standout in the category, with ๐€๐ฅ ๐‡๐š๐ซ๐š๐ฆ๐š๐ข๐ง ๐€๐ฆ๐›๐ž๐ซ ๐Ž๐ฎ๐ ๐€๐ช๐ฎ๐š ๐ƒ๐ฎ๐›๐š๐ข, a clone making waves across the fragrance community, I couldn't resist.


๐‘๐„๐€๐ƒ ๐“๐‡๐„ ๐…๐”๐‹๐‹ ๐‘๐„๐•๐ˆ๐„๐–:


๐Ÿ”— https://ifragranceofficial.com/louis-vuitton-imagination-vs-aqua-dubai/


#LouisVuitton #Luxury #Fashion #LV #Fragrance #Perfume #Style #LuxuryLifestyle #Designer #Scent #Oud #Communications #Marketing #PublicRelations #ContentStrategy #MediaRelations