The Dragon’s Blood and Frankincense Company in Richmond Hill Making Waves Worldwide

Ali K. Raza, owner of Raw Traders in Richmond Hill, ON, shows the jacket he wears while handling frankincense and other exotic incense products from around the world.

Meet Ali K. Raza, the young owner of one of the only North American wholesale suppliers of all-natural incense and essential oils. 

By Ali Bokhari 

“Come take a look at this!” my new friend exclaimed, proudly pointing at a plastic bag filled with what appeared to be off-white stones labelled “Sultan Select”.

“This is the highest-grade frankincense we carry, you can’t buy it unless you’re a good customer.”

“What’s a ‘good’ customer?”

“You have to be spending at least $10,000 in wholesale volumes with us each month to get a shot at buying it in wholesale quantities. Even then you cannot just walk up to my store and buy it. Right now we have a waiting list of more than 25 customers.”

I was with Ali K. Raza, owner of Raw Traders, one of a handful of artisan resin distilleries in North America. As a fan of my writing, he had invited me to tour his warehouse in an unassuming industrial plaza in the heart of Richmond Hill, Ontario, next to a mechanic’s shop. It was safe to say no one passing by would know Raza’s warehouse was filled to the hilt with precious tree sap and other exotic ingredients from far-off lands.

I wondered if I would ever have a shot at owning Sultan Select. Raza must have read my mind, or at least noticed how I was looking at it wistfully. “Small quantities are available in our online retail shop for everyone,” he smiled.

Raza handed over the bag of Sultan Select, and I

A packet of Sultan Select, the highest grade frankincense that Raw Traders sells. A single kg begins at C$400 and has a lengthy waiting list for wholesale  customers.

obediently bent my head and took a whiff. It smelled amazing and unlike anything I had smelled before… ultra clean, fresh and with a fizzy note that somehow reminded me of a bubbling can of Sprite. He casually mentioned that just 1 kg of the stuff started at C$400. 

Let me just say that while I’m a total fraghead and lover of all things related to frankincense, my trip to Raw Traders was the first time I had seen anything like this. It’s one thing simply to like frankincense, as I do, it’s an entirely different thing to dedicate one’s whole life to supplying it, as Raza was doing. I noticed he carefully put a small quantity of the Sultan Select in a plastic bag and set it aside for me, which in spite of my protests that it wasn't necessary he laughed off.

“Now look at this,” said Raza, bounding over to two

Ali K. Raza demonstrating how one of his distillers works.

spotlessly clean metal machines bristling with gauges that glinted in the light. “We use these to distill essential oils. There’s an 11-hour process to do it, which we must carefully record, plus another 90 minutes to clean the distillers properly.”

Raza’s easy smile and enthusiasm for his craft were infectious. Clearly, he was in his element, his passion unquestionable. Knowing his father Khushnood Raza is a regular for Friday prayers at my mosque who loves sharing his attars with the congregation, I asked Raza if there was a family connection to fragrances.

“Yes! It all started with my grandfather 75 years ago. His name was Ahmed Hasham Buoy Al Arakia, a legendary figure in the field of fragrances in Yemen. In 1938 he was the first person to get an export licence. That allowed him to ship materials from Yemen. His good name has proven invaluable in opening doors for me; his reputation has definitely helped a lot. As you know, my father loves fragrances, but not to the extent that he wanted to join my grandfather in his business.”

I asked what he would be doing if he wasn’t in this line of work.

“Probably I’d be a math teacher. I used to be a teaching assistant at the University of Toronto back in 2010. I love math as a universal language, but I hated dealing with uninterested students.”

Raza pulled out another box filled with deep red

Reza shows a bag filled with Dragon's Blood

pebbles. “This is Dragon’s Blood. It’s found in three places in the world: Socotra Island in Yemen, Sumatra in Indonesia, and Peru. This one is also very expensive stuff and is the highest grade there is: A++. It is a type of tree resin from a plant called Dracenea Cinnabari.” 

He pulled another bag containing what appeared to also be dark red pebbles. “This Dragon’s Blood is actually not a resin at all, it’s a berry from a very specific kind of tree in Sumatra, Daemonorops Draco. After the berry has been crushed, we add a very tiny percentage of a natural binder so it can be handled for burning.”

Before ever reaching Richmond Hill, the precious

The two men who row 90 km from Socotra Island to the Yemeni mainland

materials endure an arduous journey from far-off lands around the world. There are no easy one-way tickets. The Dragon’s Blood I was looking at must be picked and processed by a two-man team at Socotra Island, then rowed 90 km to the Yemeni mainland across the high seas. And that is only the beginning, there are many steps along the way before reaching Canada. Even sending money is not always easy, which is why Raza uses crypto currency to make payments.

Raza placed a small block of soap in bubble wrap and set it next to the packet of Sultan Select he had put aside earlier. “The frankincense that the wise men brought to baby Jesus was from Bethlehem. Because of the conflict there we are not able to procure it, but that is an exception; everything we sell comes from war torn lands. It just so happens that the best materials in the world come from places that have a lot of problems.”

Today Raza’s company is making a strong profit, but he declined to reveal the exact amount. His current success is a far cry from his early beginnings. Raza reckoned that from 2013 when he started to 2018, not only did he fail to turn a profit, but he lost between $30,000 and $40,000 annually. He spent those years quietly learning from his mistakes and picking up on the tricks of the trade, while building up trust with people in places where endemic corruption is a hard fact of life.

We stepped outside the warehouse into the crisp summer sun so that Raza could have a smoke, and we could drink the espresso he’d made for us.

I wondered how one could get into the frankincense business and asked my new friend what advice he would give to anyone interested in following in his footsteps. He paused, as though it was the first time he’d been asked the question.

“This profession has an almost 100% failure rate. People on the outside have no idea how difficult what we do is,” he said flatly at last, adding that he had to adjust to constant crises and stress, something that was difficult for him when he first started out. “By the laws of math, I shouldn’t be here. Simple mistakes can quickly get worse, but at the same time I can’t get too worried because emergencies are completely normal in this field.”

Raza said he believed his wholesale customers came to him because he was one of only a handful of people who could offer so many all-natural materials at his level of quality. 

“Raw Traders has three customers in Australia, two in Germany, one in England, and 10–15 in the US, but my best customer in the world is in Hamilton,” he confided as we returned inside, mentioning a city less than 90 minutes from Richmond Hill on a good day. “His name is Dan Riegler and he owns Apothecary’s Garden. I do all his oil extraction; he is the gold standard when it comes to natural perfumes, he's my favourite person in this business and I've learned so much from him.”

As Raza spoke, he kept pulling materials from bags

Reza sharing his favourite material, labdanum.

Palo santo sticks in a retail package.

sitting on shelves to let me sniff, all of which had the most lovely scent profiles, including vanilla (benzoin), woody (Palo Santo, the material Raza liked least), and leathery oud (labdanum, Raza's favourite: “I could smell it all day!”).

“At least 85% of my money is made in the wholesale market, with our peak season now [in September] to December. I don’t make my money in sales; I make it in how I buy products strategically.”

Seeing these actual active ingredients I had only heard about was fascinating. I knew most fragheads had never directly seen such ingredients, it was an experience I knew I would always remember.

As I turned to go, Raza met me at his cashier

station and handed over a bag filled with the things he had been setting aside since I walked in: Sultan Select frankincense, soap, incense sticks, Palo Santo sticks, essential oils, sandalwood incense cones and other goodies. I protested that it wasn’t necessary, but he was having none of it.

“I believe it’s a good sign that a business is doing well when it can do this. I’m so honoured that you stopped by, and I hope you can do it again soon.”

For more info about Raw Traders visit www.rawtradersinc.ca. Raw Traders is located at 395 Red Maple Road, Unit 1, Richmond Hill, Ontario, L4C 6P3, Canada. For questions call +1-416-871-5179 or email info@rawtradersinc.ca. 

𝐋𝐨𝐧𝐠 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐝: 𝐇𝐨𝐰 𝐈 𝐟𝐢𝐧𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 𝐝𝐢𝐬𝐜𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐃𝐢𝐨𝐫’𝐬 𝐥𝐞𝐠𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐄𝐚𝐮 𝐒𝐚𝐮𝐯𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐏𝐚𝐫𝐟𝐮𝐦 𝐚𝐟𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐦𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐡𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐬𝐞𝐚𝐫𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠⁣

 

𝘉𝘺 𝘈𝘭𝘪 𝘉𝘰𝘬𝘩𝘢𝘳𝘪⁣

"There's no such thing," said the saleswoman staring back at me.⁣

"Yes, there is," I insisted. "It's one of Dior's first men's fragrances. It's such a classic.⁣" 

I was flabbergasted she didn't know such an important fragrance. "I'm not talking about Sauvage. I'm talking about Eau Sauvage. Despite the name, they are not even closely related,"⁣ I added.

(𝘓𝘰𝘰𝘬, 𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘱𝘰𝘴𝘵 𝘪𝘴 𝘧𝘰𝘳 𝘴𝘦𝘳𝘪𝘰𝘶𝘴 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘪𝘯𝘵𝘦𝘭𝘭𝘪𝘨𝘦𝘯𝘵 𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘥𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘸𝘩𝘰 𝘭𝘪𝘬𝘦 𝘥𝘦𝘵𝘢𝘪𝘭𝘦𝘥 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘧𝘦𝘴𝘴𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘭 𝘧𝘶𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘦𝘷𝘪𝘦𝘸𝘴. 𝘐𝘧 𝘺𝘰𝘶 𝘥𝘰𝘯'𝘵 𝘭𝘪𝘬𝘦 𝘪𝘵 𝘰𝘳 𝘤𝘢𝘯'𝘵 𝘧𝘰𝘤𝘶𝘴 𝘵𝘩𝘦𝘯 𝘥𝘰 𝘺𝘰𝘶𝘳𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘧 𝘢 𝘧𝘢𝘷𝘰𝘶𝘳 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘮𝘰𝘷𝘦 𝘰𝘯. 𝘕𝘰𝘸 𝘣𝘢𝘤𝘬 𝘵𝘰 𝘮𝘺 𝘱𝘰𝘴𝘵.)

I was at the men's fragrance section at The Bay (RIP) last year, hoping to catch a sniff of Dior Eau Sauvage EDT for the first time.⁣

I personally never would buy fragrances from The Bay, which, until it went out of business this year, was Canada's oldest department store. Nor do I go to Shoppers (Canada's version of Walgreens or CVS), and even less likely to Sephora. The prices there simply don't make sense to me.⁣

However, there WAS a very good reason to be at The Bay, which was that, like many brick-and-mortar stores selling at retail, they were the best place to try many designer fragrances. As my experience showed, the people working there don't always know what they're talking about, but being able to try the frags more than makes up for it.⁣

Finally, the lady seemed to realize I would not go away. "Follow me," she said, taking me to her colleague in a section of the cosmetics department that was all Dior. Dior Lady smiled as I repeated my request.⁣

"Eau Sauvage? But that's such an old fragrance," she said, wrinkling her nose. "You should try Sauvage instead. It's very popular."⁣

"Yes, so popular that everyone wears it. It's so overdone," I replied with more than a little exasperation.⁣

"You should try this one," she said, taking out a tester of Sauvage Eau Forte. "It's new."⁣

"I don't care if Sauvage is popular. I just want to smell Eau Sauvage!" I finally snapped.⁣

Staring at me for a second with an awkward pause, she finally pulled out a crystal bottle of what I had spent five minutes asking for. ⁣

The frosted crystal Eau Sauvage EDT bottle glinted under the harsh fluorescent lights. Diagonal lines in the glass hid fingerprints. A narrow ribbon wrapped around the bottle, with the name of the house and fragrance being in the middle. I was immediately smitten.⁣

Dior Lady spritzed two sprays on the back of my hand. I raised it to my nose and took a deep sniff. ⁣

Honestly, my immediate impression at the time was it was one of the best openings I had ever smelled.⁣

Lemon, bergamot, and something herbal, which I later learned was basil, unfurled. It did not smell floral exactly, but definitely had a complex floral element. Peeking out underneath it all was a clean and smooth vetiver, musk, and something ambery.⁣

It smelled utterly grown-up and utterly classic. Dior Eau Sauvage EDT reminded me of a different time and place, long before the Internet, when men wore white shirts with ties and drove gasoline-powered cars to 9-5 jobs and smelled put together even for a simple outing to malls like this one on the weekend, and only bought fragrances from stores like The Bay.⁣

I walked out of the store and drove home, constantly smelling my hand. If only it lasted longer on my skin. After a few hours, it was almost gone. Still, I wanted more.⁣

That's how I learned of Eau Sauvage Parfum.⁣

𝐅𝐢𝐧𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐄𝐚𝐮 𝐒𝐚𝐮𝐯𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐏𝐚𝐫𝐟𝐮𝐦: 𝐌𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐈𝐦𝐩𝐨𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐛𝐥𝐞⁣

Going home and looking up the EDT on Fragrantica to see what people thought of it, I noticed another suggested fragrance that I had not seen earlier. It was my first glimpse of Eau Sauvage Parfum.⁣

I read that Dior came out with a richer, much darker, far better-performing, more resinous version of the EDT in 2012. In 2017, Christian Dior made major changes to the formula, essentially dropping myrrh, a resin often burned for incense with historical importance (recall the tale of the three wise men visiting Jesus, one of them bearing myrrh). This 2017 update brought it closer to the original EDT.⁣

Excitedly, I started searching for the fragrance. And that's when I realized that, where I live in Canada, finding a bottle of Eau Sauvage Parfum might be a lot harder than I initially realized.⁣

Here in the Toronto area, if you want the best prices for brand new in-box fragrances, then you can either order from fragrancebuy.ca, order from or visit Maximum Fragrance in Mississauga, ON, or order from or visit The Fragrance Shop in Newmarket, ON. I'm sure there are many other Greater Toronto Area discounter boutiques I haven't visited, DS Fragrances in Mississauga, for example.⁣

Unfortunately, when I looked up my three go-to companies, none of them carried what I wanted. Frustrated, I looked up big department stores, however, not even those had it. I even looked at Amazon and eBay, but whatever bottles I found there were fantastically overpriced. Finally, I visited Dior's site. It was not there.⁣

Digging for info late into the night, I heard whispers that Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum had been discontinued. Some folks said it may still be available in the US and EU, but here in Canada, it is close to impossible to find.⁣

Frustrated and saddened, I thought there was no way I could find a bottle. At that time, I did not want to search in the grey market, which is filled with fakes.⁣

With a sigh, I swiped away the window on my phone and turned over to sleep.⁣

I had no idea how wrong I was.⁣

𝐅𝐎𝐔𝐍𝐃 𝐈𝐓!⁣

As mentioned, I have two go-to stores in the GTA where I frequently like to shop, my favourite one being Maximum Fragrance at Rockwood Mall in Mississauga. I was visiting this store about six months ago when I had a shock.⁣

Remembering Eau Sauvage EDT, I had decided I'd like to take a sniff again. There were plenty of bottles of it. The store sells all kinds of perfumes, including rare and discontinued fragrances, so I knew the EDT would be there.

I was subconsciously looking at the EDT when I noticed something a little different. There it was, on the end, a pristine, brand new, never-opened box of Eau Sauvage Parfum. It had not been listed online, it was being sold in the stores only.⁣

I immediately told the clerk helping me that I wanted to try the Parfum. Unfortunately, there was no tester for this one, he said. Undeterred, I asked him for the price.⁣

Let's just say it was a lot more money than most people would pay for a fragrance, even frag heads like me. Crestfallen, I left the store, bowed but not broken. I swore that I would make it my mission to buy it once I could, even though it seemed next to impossible now.⁣

𝖲𝗈𝗆𝖾𝗍𝗂𝗆𝖾𝗌 𝖽𝗋𝖾𝖺𝗆𝗌 𝖽𝗈 𝖼𝗈𝗆𝖾 𝗍𝗋𝗎𝖾⁣

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐮𝐲𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐞𝐱𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐞⁣

As the months passed, I continuously monitored the Eau Sauvage Parfum. It sat undisturbed, apparently unnoticed by store patrons. Meanwhile, I transitioned into a new career doing landscaping for homes, which not only was personally much more enjoyable, it paid very well too.⁣

I started buying higher-quality fragrances than I ever had before, until one day I realized it was time to get what I had thought of so many times over many months.⁣

As an in-store-only fragrance, Maximum Fragrance did not allow Afterpay or other forms of online payment in installments for the Eau Sauvage Parfum. Also, it meant I could not use online promotional codes. But they really did me right.⁣

I emailed the company's sales team at the time of an online-only promotion and explained the situation. They sent me an email granting me special one-time permission to use a 10% off promotional code. I was so happy that I decided to also buy Gucci Intense Oud (review on this frag another time), which I sampled and did love.⁣

As I handed over my hard-earned money the following day, I felt so much emotion and thankfulness. Not long ago, I had a hard time even buying cheap clones. Then I was (and still am) buying decants to try before I buy. Now I'm able to buy not one but two exquisite designers without Afterpay. But would Eau Sauvage Parfum smell as good as I hoped?⁣

Smiling, I hurried home to open the boxes. I wanted to experience this intimate moment with my frags 1:1.⁣

𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐢𝐭 𝐬𝐦𝐞𝐥𝐥𝐞𝐝 𝐥𝐢𝐤𝐞⁣

Once home, I carefully opened both boxes and got ready to start with the Eau Sauvage. The bottle looked like the EDT, but with a black ribbon around it with the name in silver. I pulled off the snazzy black magnetic cap and sprayed once on each side of my neck.⁣

GOOD GOD it was strong! I reminded myself to only apply one spray next time and on my chest instead, a strategy that indeed worked in subsequent wearings.⁣

Such a complex fragrance that I immediately knew was a masterpiece, one with scintillatingly rich and resinous notes. As mentioned, the 2012 version was known for its resinous myrrh, but to my nose, the 2017 version had no shortage of resin. ⁣

Off the top, I got citron, bergamot, and an abundance of lavender. As far as the opening went, Eau Sauvage Parfum did not immediately strike me as beautiful so much as elegant and striking, if that makes sense. It is certainly masculine and straddling the line between classic and modern, much more than the EDT, in my mind, for sure. This is absolutely not a fragrance designed⁣ haphazardly, it is very much expertly and intentionally blended.

The drydown, though, took the story to an altogether higher level in my mind. What an absolutely world-class scent profile and niche quality to my nose. Elemi resin emerged, along with vetiver, cinnamon, and star anise. These notes make the Parfum entirely more spicy, but not so much that it's a cold-weather fragrance only.⁣

The performance is also perfect. I wore it for 12+ hours, and after a dynamite and dynamic 3 hours, my scent bubble continued to project moderately for another 6 hours. Great sillage too, I was still getting gorgeous whiffs of it 12 hours later every time I moved.⁣

This is an absolutely formal and special occasion fragrance in my mind. It is so unusual and complex, as well as bold, that it stands out from the countless sweet vanilla and cinnamon bombs. If not worn with nice clothes or sprayed more than 1–2 times, it would absolutely wear me instead of me wearing it.⁣

𝐋𝐚𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐠𝐡𝐭𝐬⁣

It's the middle of summer, and my parents are visiting Toronto from Chicago. With one spray on my chest, I chose to wear Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum to honour them and remember our moments together fondly. I have many other high-end fragrances to choose from, so I think that's saying a lot.⁣

I do think that while this fragrance is extremely difficult to find in Canada, you might more easily find it in other markets like the US and especially the EU. Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum is definitely a 10/10 fragrance as far as I'm concerned, and I don't have anything else like it in my collection. ⁣

If you like classic men's perfumery with a modern twist, then get it, you won't go wrong. ⁣

It's definitely worth the wait.

From Sunnah to Signature Scent: Islam’s Fragrant Legacy

How a 1,400-year-old tradition of perfume wearing by Muslims shaped cultures, modern perfumery and even Guerlain legend Thierry Wasser’s philosophy

By Ali Bokhari

One of the biggest drivers behind wearing fragrances in the world, whether one wants to believe in a religion or not, is undoubtedly Islam, a faith followed by more than 1.8 billion. 

I can already hear the howling of some, angry that I'm bringing up what to their minds is a dangerous, destructive and divisive topic like religion, especially Islam. Some of these critics might even be Muslims lacking confidence to say what they think and stand up for their identity confidently. The shock, the horror! 

Look, I'm going to say some stuff you may have never heard. I'm a proud and observant Muslim, a person who tries to follow Islam to the best of his ability. There's a reason I'm bringing this up that has to do with fragrances. I'm hoping we can all chill and have better understanding and respect for an ancient community as well as see that without Islam it's entirely possible modern perfumery would be unrecognizable today. With 1 out of every 5 people on Earth being Muslim, what people from this group says matters.

Islam as a way of life

Unlike some faiths, Islam is a religion that is not just a series of beliefs or ideas, but a way of life. Literally every moment of observant Muslims' lives is governed by practices and ideals. These can range from everything like rules governing eating food with the right hand, how to pray 5 obligatory prayers a day, encouragement to smile, and how we dress, to broad principles that are flexible for different times and places. 

While the details on some of these things might be disputed, this concept of the religion being about practice as well as belief is pretty much unanimous. Even people who are non-religuous or atheists who grow up in Muslim lands are often deeply impacted by this concept.

In Islam there are two main sources for the beliefs and practices, 1. the Qur'an, which is the holy book of Islam, which has been uncorrupted and is the same text from when it was revealed more than 1,400 years ago, and 2., the recorded sayings and practices of the Prophet Muhammad, also known as his "Sunnah".

Muslim scholars of religions do discuss and debate what are the correct beliefs and practices as covered by the sources in the religion, but there is direct evidence that being clean and smelling handsome or beautiful is very important and the sign of a good Muslim. To smell good is one aspect of Islam that is virtually universal amongst all Muslims.

Guidance on fragrances

Muslims are directly encouraged to wear clean and fresh clothing and to smell good while praying, to the extent that pretty much all Muslims believe to do so is meritorious and increases the reward that God, who we call Allah, blesses us with. This is all orthodox and pretty much unanimously agreed by the major Muslim denominations, whether Sunni, Shia, Salafi or Sufi. At a time when most people in Europe considered bathing dangerous and that lice were "God's pearls" in the darkness of the middle ages, Muslims were on the cutting edge not only of fragrances but all of civilization. To wear frags was not a fluke of history but directly based on Islamic injunctions.

There is a recorded tradition in which the Prophet Muhammad is to have said, "Truly Allah is beautiful and loves beauty", and another in which he said "cleanliness is from faith". He also is reported in numerous traditions to have said that perfume was one of his favorite things. In other traditions he is reported to have discouraged eating garlic before meeting others, as the smell could bother them. 

The question might come up about specifically what type of perfumes are recommended in Islam. Single note fragrances such as musk, florals or sandlewood were what most people wore in the early days of Islam and throughout much of history until relatively recently. Some Muslims choose to wear these to this day, however to the best of my knowledge any kind of fragrance that smells good is highly recommended. 

Wastefulness and unchecked materialism is considered reprehensible in Islam, with a notable exception made for fragrances. Fragrances are one of the few things in Islam that is not only considered acceptable to splurge on but is a good thing to do, provided it doesn't severely negatively impact oneself or others, especially a Muslim's family.

Islam and fragrances today

All of these and many more statements have had a deep impact on Muslims throughout more than 1,400 years, and in turn the world. Just ask Guerlain perfumer legend Thierry Wasser. 

In an interview Wasser mentioned the impact that Muslim theology had on his own ideas about fragrances. A friend told him that by smelling good and pleasing Allah's creation through it, it is a form of pleasing the Creator as well. Wasser said he was very impressed by his friend's point, which directly influenced his own thoughts about perfumery. It is this philosophy about what fragrances should do for others as well as the self which may explain why many fragrances made even today in Muslim lands put an emphasis on performance, especially projection.

In 2025, Islam is an international religion with many Western countries having large and influential Muslim populations. People in the West travel to and through Muslim countries like the UAE, especially Dubai. Just as Grasse in France has been a center for perfumery, today Dubai is equally relevant to the fragrance community and in certain quarters even more so. 

With so much interaction, cultural exchanges are also at an all time high, especially with young people who are not threatened so much as their elders by others' views and beliefs. Even many Western brands have woken up to this reality with some now regularly producing "oud" perfumes for worldwide consumption, and regular special releases in places as far-flung as Istanbul, Dubai and Singapore.

It would be a mistake to think just because the most widely recognized Middle Eastern fragrance houses in the west only clone Western fragrances, such as Lattafa and Armaf, that that is the extent of Arabian perfumery. While some high end frag houses like Turkey's Hacivat and Oman's Amouage are relatively well known in frag com for producing fragrances worth hundreds of dollars, there are hundreds of other excellent companies that are still completely unknown in the West. I admit that this kind of perfume does not have much of a market,  yet in places such as the United States or Germany, marking an exciting and much unexplored area of perfume that Western frag heads are just waking up to.

Some different practices in Muslim majority countries 

With 50+ Muslim majority countries and 1.8 billion followers of the faith, there are literally tens of thousands of rich cultures. While Muslims worldwide use spray fragrances, here are a few common practices that are quite different compared to norms in mainstream Western cultures.

Especially popular with people in the Persian Gulf region, many hang their clothes over smoking incense to deeply perfume themselves. They call such incense by many different names, but "bakhoor" is the most common. If you walk through shopping malls in the region you'll likely see smoke with a beautiful rich fragrance wafting in the air from different shops, especially perfume stores.

People in the East tend to use sticks of incense more than bakhoor, in South Asia especially North India and Pakistan it's commonly called agarbati, but you see the same idea behind it, there is a notion that perfuming space is important. Virtually across the Muslim world people use these different kinds of incense to perfume their homes, especially if a guest is visiting or a major celebration is taking place.

In many countries using roller sticks filled with pure fragrance oil is the norm, these can be extremely expensive with a 1 ml bottle costing tens of thousands of dollars, but usually people wear them because at the other end of the spectrum they are generally far less expensive. With these sticks the projection is not always amazing but the longevity most often is. 

You can easily pick up bakhoor and oil rollers for a few dollars in most big cities. Search on Google for Islamic book and clothing stores, these almost always carry these scents, as well as incense burners. 

Hope this article was useful, any questions?

Ali Bokhari is a passionate perfume lover who was a journalist and corporate communications manager for 20+ years before recently changing careers and entering the world of gardening. Follow him on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/aatifbokhari.

Image created by Ali Bokhari using ChatGPT.

Guerlain L'Homme Ideal: After the EDP and Extreme, the Parfum Comes to the Rescue (part 2/2)

Ali Bokhari reviews L'Homme Ideal Parfum, the Guerlain scent that redeemed a line he nearly gave up on. Elegant, complex and finally worth keeping.

by Ali Bokhari

As mentioned in part one of this two part series, after the intrigue, the lust, the blind-buying and the heartbreak that followed, I quickly sold my bottle of Guerlain L’Homme Idéal EDP and swapped my L’Homme Idéal Extrême on Facebook. 

(Want to buy fragrances on Facebook without getting scammed? Read my guide here!)

What did I swap the Extrême for? That’s a story for another Friday. Today, I want to talk about the fragrance that restored my faith in Guerlain’s most modern, sophisticated, and dare I say sexiest release to date. L’Homme Idéal Parfum. This is the one that convinced me Guerlain still knows how to speak fluent elegance.

Having never experienced the full Guerlain direct-to-consumer treatment, and knowing my purchase would qualify me for some exclusive items for family (the kind that don’t show up on discount shelves or grey markets), I decided to go all in. I saved up and bought my bottle directly from Guerlain’s official site.

From the moment I began the checkout process, the experience felt completely different from ordering through discounters. This was more than a transaction, it was an event.

I placed my order using Guerlain’s mobile site. Since I’m based in Canada and had no interest in paying tariffs, duties, or entering a trade war over a perfume bottle, I made sure to shop from Guerlain’s Canadian domain.

Ordering the Parfum Directly from Guerlain: Luxury personified

Guerlain gave me the option to have my items delivered in either their classic white box or a modern brown cardboard box with a cut-out bee—the brand’s iconic symbol—through which I could peek at the contents. Naturally, I picked the bee box. I mean, if you’re going to go full French luxury, go all the way, right?

There was also the option of complimentary engraving: 10 characters, in either print or cursive, etched onto the front of the bottle. After a bit of soul-searching (and resisting the urge to write my opus), I settled on my first and middle names, Aatif Ali, in cursive. I knew engraving meant no returns, but I was feeling committed, sophisticated, and not least of all sure of myself.

Just when I thought that was the end of the perks, Guerlain threw in a free personalized message option. I wasn’t exactly in a Hallmark mood, but I scribbled down a few motivational lines just to see how the note would come out. Oh, and I got to choose three complimentary fragrance samples too. Guerlain was really putting on the charm.

I selected complimentary 2–6 day shipping from Quebec to my place near Toronto and paid with my debit card. Less than 48 hours later, the box arrived. You could cut the excitement in the air with a knife. Look, I don’t believe in paying full retail for perfume as a habit, but for the sake of the experience? I’m glad I did it once. I would be lying if I didn't admit I was thrilled.

Of course, no love story is without its hiccups.

Unboxing my order: Close, but not quite a fairytale

Opening the box, I smiled as the bee-shaped cutout on the lid came into view. Through them I could see a small white drawstring bag with Guerlain’s name, a sleek little white box containing soaps I’d never seen in stores, and of course, the star of the show, my L’Homme Idéal Parfum.

Tucked alongside the other items was also an envelope with my receipt and the card with my message to myself. Everything looked as premium as I’d hoped ... at least until I took a closer look at the bottle.

At first glance the bottle looked almost identical to the EDP and Extrême I had just booted from my collection. Same squared shape, same cap, nearly the same label. The only real difference was the juice color and the word “Parfum” printed on the front.

Then came the bigger disappointment. As I held the

bottle up to the light, turning it to admire my custom engraving, I saw my name Aatif Ali ... in print. Not cursive.

I know what happened, because I went through it several times before ordering. While flipping between pages during checkout, the engraving setting in the order kept reverting to the default san-seriff print font. It wasn’t a disaster, but still, it definitely stung. I had wanted cursive so badly. Cursive is elegant. Print is fine, but let’s be honest, it’s a little pedestrian.

I took a breath, gave myself a pep talk, and decided to move on.

Testing the Parfum: First sprays, first impression

Like its siblings, the Parfum is made for cold weather. And as luck would have it, mid-May in the Toronto area was feeling more like late November. Cold, sharp wind. Perfect weather to wear the Parfum.

I popped the cap off with the same satisfying click as my other Guerlains and looked over the bottle again. Still underwhelmed by the presentation, I reminded myself that this wasn’t about looks, but about scent.

I sprayed once on each side of my neck, behind each ear, and twice on my inner arm. Then I pulled on a sweatshirt, sprayed each shoulder to test projection off fabric, and headed out to run errands.

The sweet smell of redemption

Within minutes of leaving home, I started to feel the same warm, cozy ear sensation I remembered from when I wore the EDP. Only this time, it was better. The opening was rich and smooth, with a wave of almond and cherry due to a note I hadn’t experienced: amaretto.

All L'Homme Ideal frags are based around almonds, but the amaretto to my nose had a different almond vibe from anything else I had ever smelled before. It was boozy, sweet and refined. Then, about two minutes in, a burst of cherry swept in and stole the show. It was gorgeous. Not sickly syrupy and not medicinal. Just smooth, juicy and elegant. Imagine the fizziness of Cherry Coke being blended to smell entirely grownup and mature.

The cherry didn’t stick around for long, maybe 10 minutes, but it left a lasting impression I wanted to experience time and again. As the cherry faded, a soft leather note emerged, grounding everything in a gentle sophistication.

From top to drydown, how would I describe the Parfum? Classy. Intentional. Cohesive. No surprises, no chaos, just a quiet confidence that said, “Yes, I am that good.” The scent eventually settled into a fairly linear phase, with the most noticeable changes coming from projection and sillage.

Performance check: High expectations, moderate reality

Let’s be clear. For something labeled Parfum, this

doesn’t have the kind of monstrous projection or longevity that some might expect. But compared to the latest formulations of the EDP and Extrême? While definitely not as good as I had hoped, for my taste L'Homme Ideal Parfum is a clear improvement over its predecessors. 

The Parfum gave me solid projection for about 60 minutes. After that, the scent bubble pulled back to about a half-arm’s length and remained there for another 2-3 hours. I might have gone a bit nose-blind at that point, because I still caught nice whiffs when stepping out of my car or walking back into the house. By hour four, the Parfum had faded away and checked out. 

I repeatedly tested the Parfum over the course of several days, and found my initial impressions remained consistent. Oh, I tested it everywhere: at work, running errands, during a surprise rainstorm, before bed, and even first thing in the morning. The results were always the same. Not powerhouse performance, but decent. Better than its siblings in my book. More mature. More grounded.

And honestly, I’m okay with that. Some fragrances don’t need to shout to be heard.

Is it redundant? That depends on your collection

If you’re a fan of the L’Homme Idéal line and only have access to newer formulations, the Parfum is going to feel like a polished, grown-up version of everything you already love.

If, however, you own early batches of the EDP or Extrême, which are known for having much stronger performance, the Parfum might not be essential—at least not for the scent profile alone. What you’re really getting with the Parfum is refinement. From that aspect the fragrance is excellent.

If I had to pick one modern L’Homme Idéal release to keep then I’d go with the Parfum every time. It thrives in cold weather like nothing else in my collection. And despite the engraving hiccup, I’ve grown to love the bottle. Anyway, like it or not it’s staying in my collection.

The last word

Let me be clear: calling out the EDP and Extrême doesn’t mean I’m anti-Guerlain. Far from it. I love what Guerlain is doing. The L’Homme Idéal line is one of the few designer releases for men that manages to be sweet without being juvenile, elegant without being uptight.

I’m still wearing my Vétiver EDT, Habit Rouge EDT and Héritage EDP weekly, even with several other options. Guerlain has a long history of getting it right, and I really do hope they will again with the L'Homme Ideal line.

I hope future batches of L'Homme Ideal Parfum retain previous levels of richness, but I can't wait around for that. 

Since the time I purchased Guerlain L'Homme Ideal Parfum, I've already bought something very different to be my signature scent for now, a fragrance I like so much that I'm sure my new 200 ml refillable bottle is bound to get a lot of use in the years to come ... Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Parfum. The performance and scent are to die for. Nostalgic for the EDT of my early days, I also got a 75 ml bottle of Acqua di Gio EDP, but that one is nothing like I expected.

Stay tuned for my upcoming review next Friday! 

The Ultimate Guide For How to Buy Fragrances on Facebook (and not get scammed!)

Ali Bokhari’s guide to safely buying fragrances on Facebook—real deals, real tips, no scams. Your wallet (and nose) will thank you.

By Ali Bokhari

That smoky smell every time you buy a fragrance? Yeah, that's the acrid smell of money burning a hole in your pocket.

Look, I get it. Buying fragrances at retail or even from discounter sites at times can be brutally expensive. But there is a smarter way to smell great than setting your wallet or purse on fire: try buying fragrances on Facebook.

Now, before you roll your eyes or clutch your hard-earned catch, hear me out.

Yes, Facebook is full of scammers and trolls itching to offload fakes or flat-out rob you. But it's also got some surprisingly good deals if you know what you’re doing. In this article, I’m going to walk you through five essential dos and don’ts for buying fragrances on Facebook Marketplace and private groups. Some of these tips apply beyond perfume, so pay attention even if you’re just casually browsing.

Let’s dive in.

The Dos

1. Do know that many brand and product names are banned in Facebook groups

This is going to sound absolutely crazy to anyone who does not know, but many Facebook fragrance groups have banned users from using brand and product names. Why? Because certain fragrance companies have pressured the social media site into shutting down groups and discussions that mention their products. As a workaround, many groups now require you to misspell all brand names and blur out fragrance names in photos when selling. They are doing this so that, as one group admin told me, buyers and sellers "fly under the radar."

So what does that mean for you as a buyer? Well, if you’re searching for a

specific brand or scent and type it in normally, you might find nothing. That doesn’t mean the scent isn’t being sold, it just means it’s hiding in plain sight under a creative alias. For example, Dior might be written as “D1or” or “DeeOhR.” Some groups even block words like “sale,” “shipping”, "dollars" and the “$” symbol.

If you're unsure how to search or post, here's a useful Google Doc I came across that suggests alternate spellings for a wide range of companies, some of which are pressuring Facebook, and some which are not:

A list of fragrance companies' alternative names

This naming workaround is mostly limited to private groups, not Marketplace, but it’s important to be aware either way.

2. Do know that Facebook Marketplace isn’t your only option

Marketplace can be a decent starting point, but private Facebook groups are where the real action is. Some of my go-to groups include The Fragrance Group, Fragrance Marketplace, Canadian Fragrance Enthusiasts, and when I want to get in touch with my South Asian heritage, the Pakistan Fragrance Community. You can find many similar ones by searching for groups based on your location.

Why private groups? I find that unlike with many profiles on Facebook Marketplace, regular sellers in groups tend to be far more widely known and vouched for. There’s a baseline of trust and many members are friendly, helpful and just as obsessed with fragrance as you are. These groups also allow you to search previous listings, giving you a realistic sense of pricing trends for specific fragrances.

You’ll generally find the lowest to highest prices beginning samples (2–5 ml), then decants (10-20 ml), and finally full bottles. Sizes vary wildly, but the rule of thumb is the more you buy, the lower your cost per ml. Try samples if your budget is limited before committing to bottles, it's a lot of fun and the easiest way to stop incinerating your wallet or purse.

3. Do understand fragrance group lingo

If you’re new to this scene, some terms will fly over your head unless you catch up fast. Here’s a cheat sheet:

• BNIB (Brand New In Box): Never opened, usually it's still sealed.
• ISO (In Search Of): Used when you’re looking to buy a specific scent.
• BIN (Buy It Now): You’re jumping to the front of the line and committing to buy—no backing out unless the seller's terms change.
• Partial: A used bottle, often with a listed percentage remaining.
• Milliliters (ml): The most common standard unit worldwide for measuring perfume juice; other markets may use fluid ounces (fl oz).
• Juice: Slang for the perfume liquid itself (e.g., “this juice is amber in color”).
• Decant: A small amount of juice transferred to a new atomizer, usually 1–10 ml.
• Legit check: A post that requests all group members to weigh in on whether a seller is reliable and trustworthy. For example, you could say, "Can I get a respectful legit check on Ali Bokhari? Thanks!"

There are many more terms, but these are the most important to know. Hopefully it will save yourself a ton of confusion!

4. Do remember that list prices are negotiable (most of the time)

I'm happy to share that a listed price on Facebook is usually a starting point, not a final offer. If a listing has been sitting unsold for weeks, it may represent an opportunity. Politely message the seller and say something like, “Hey, I noticed this has been up for a while, would you consider a lower price?” If someone’s selling a bottle for $85, there’s no harm in politely asking, “Would you take $75 today?” Unless they say “firm price” or “no lowballs,” it’s fair game. I recommend not suggesting a price lower than 20% what the seller originally listed.

Also, keep in mind: once a bottle is opened, its value drops. Don’t pay near-retail for a used bottle. Partials should be priced significantly lower. Period.

5. Do respect the seller's time

This one’s crucial. Most sellers have day jobs and real lives. I know I do! If you commit to a meet-up at 6 PM, then be there at 6 PM—or at least communicate any delays well in advance. Don’t ghost. Do not show up more than five minutes late without a heads-up. Word travels fast and you don’t want to get blacklisted from a small, tight-knit community.

And whatever you do, do NOT try to renegotiate in person after firmly agreeing to terms online. Unless the seller changes something, the deal is done. Respect the process.

The Don'ts

1. Don’t trust new or inactive profiles

Scammers often operate under profiles with zero activity, few (or fake) friends, and no visible history. If the profile looks like it was born yesterday, avoid it. You may check their personal profile (not to be confused with their buyer profile) to see if they are really human. Personally, when I'm selling things, I photograph myself with the items I'm selling. Look for sellers who do the same, or at least include a piece of paper in the photo with their handwritten name and date the photo was taken. Most scammers will not want to do this. 

Just like any normal person like me or you, legit sellers usually have some footprint—photos, posts and a history of buying/selling. Check their profile, read the comments on past listings and do a quick gut check before engaging. Heck, you might even find you have friends in common, which would be REALLY good!

2. Don’t assume authenticity based on photos alone

Just because a listing has clean, clear photos doesn’t mean it’s legit. Counterfeiters are getting scarily good at faking the look, with some even reusing pictures from legit sellers. Others take 100% real bottles and pump them full of knockoff juice. Oftentimes the only way to recognize there is a fake is to pull off its atomizer head and take a look at its inner workings. If it's different from the real thing, then it's sadly enough a fake.

If you’re unsure whether you’re looking at the real deal or what to look for, take photos of the front and bottom of the box, and the front and bottom of the bottle. Then post them in a reputable fragrances group on Facebook. Let seasoned members weigh in. Most people are glad to help, and it could save you from making a costly mistake. That said, sometimes even well-regarded, well-meaning group users can be wrong. Always ask to speak with whomever is known to be an expert on the brand and product in the group.

3. Don’t be rushed into a transaction

One common scam is using high-pressure tactics. They may say “I have another buyer lined up,” or “You have 5 minutes to decide.” Slow down. Scammers thrive on emotional purchases, which is partly because our limbic fight-or-flight response kicks into high gear. We get so worked up due to our survival response. There is no need for all that drama. Read the terms. Double-check everything. And most of all, don't think that there is no other deal like it—things pop up for sale every day. As an experienced buyer and seller, I can tell you that there are very few once-in-a-lifetime type deals.

Side tip: Some scammers even send fake e-transfer requests that look like payment receipts but are actually requests for your money. Always read carefully, and when in doubt, walk away. Your financial security is not worth risking.

4. Don’t forget about shipping

It’s easy to fall in love with a price and overlook shipping costs. Clarify up front whether the price includes shipping, handling, and any cross-border duties.

If the seller says “all in,” that means everything is included—fragrance, shipping, taxes and so on. If it is not an all-in deal, then ask for a breakdown before committing.

5. Don’t move the conversation off Facebook

I've seen that some scammers will ask to continue the chat on WhatsApp, Instagram, or text. Don’t do it. Facebook at least provides some level of accountability and moderation. If things go south, there’s a digital trail. Once you leave the platform, you're basically on your own. I always recommend fragrance customers stick to Facebook, keep records and protect themselves.

This is not just a message for beginners—we all need to take care of ourselves. Whether you've been in the fragrance game for 19 minutes or 19 years, we are all potential victims.

Final thoughts

Buying fragrances on Facebook isn’t for the faint of heart, but for anyone willing to give it a shot it can be worth it. If you’re cautious, respectful and informed, you can find killer deals and maybe even make a few fragrance friends along the way.

Just remember: if a deal on Facebook looks too good to be true, it probably is. But if it looks just good enough? That might be your next signature scent waiting to be unboxed.

Guerlain L’Homme Idéal EDP and Extrême: Scents That Smell Great, but Quickly Go AWOL

In part one of this two-part fragrance review, Ali Bokhari unpacks why Guerlain’s L’Homme Idéal EDP and Extrême—despite their beautiful compositions—became frustrating experiences due to performance issues. Part two, coming next Friday, will focus on L’Homme Idéal Parfum, a richer scent that in his view restores the line's prestige ... for now.

By Ali Bokhari

I may not look it, but I turned 45 this year. As cliché as it sounds, that milestone triggered more reflection than I expected. Not a full-blown crisis, but I’ve been having the kind of quiet conversations with myself that tend to surface around midlife. Do I embrace the white whiskers and the quiet dignity of getting older, or try to wring every last drop of youth out of my days and keep chasing those childhood dreams?

Somewhere in that swirl of questions, I ended up revisiting my fragrance collection.

The overhaul began with a simple decision: I wanted scents that better reflected who I am now. Less attention-seeking, more grounded. That meant saying goodbye to Armaf Club de Nuit Man EDT, my most complimented fragrance ever. It had served me well at one time long ago, but it no longer felt like me. In its place, I turned to Guerlain, a house with history, nuance and a reputation for elegance over hype.

Guerlain has always been a name with weight in the fragrance world. I already owned and regularly wore three of its classics: Habit Rouge EDT, Vétiver EDT and Héritage EDP. Each one has its own timeless character. Habit Rouge evokes an old-school, barbershop elegance. Vétiver is sharp, green, and clean. Héritage offers something deeper, woodier and more introspective. In fact, I wore it before starting on this article, to my mind Héritage is a great thinking man's scent. These are fragrances for men who don’t need to announce themselves. I wear them proudly, but I’m also aware they skew more mature and traditional.

What caught my eye in the L’Homme Idéal line was

something different. Guerlain was clearly aiming to expand its audience, adding sweetness, modern flair and broader appeal, especially among younger men. These new releases seemed designed to bridge the gap between legendary heritage and new trends. I was curious whether Guerlain could pull that off without losing its soul.

Over the past decade, the fragrance landscape has shifted. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram transformed niche perfumery into a mainstream obsession. During the pandemic, online reviews and blind buys surged. In that climate, many fragrance houses began favoring bold, ultra-sweet, high-projection styles aimed at mass appeal. Guerlain was one of the first to make a sea change by supplementing its mainstream classics with more accessible, gourmand-influenced offerings part of the L'Homme Ideal line.

I picked up three fragrances from the L’Homme Idéal line to test that shift for myself: the EDP, the Extrême and the Parfum. All were recent formulations. This review focuses on the first two, with a follow-up on the Parfum coming next week.

The L’Homme Idéal Line: A Brief Overview

The theme of this line is right there in the name—L’Homme Idéal, the Ideal Man. Since the first release, Guerlain has expanded the series with multiple flankers, each offering a slightly different take on sweetness, masculinity, and style. Some feel like attempts to capture current tastes. Others seem like internal experiments, trying to define what “ideal” really means now.

Here’s a quick look at the lineup as of May 2025:

• EDT (2014): Almond, citrus, leather, and tonka. A surprisingly modern and fresh take for Guerlain, with depth to spare. Often overlooked.
• Cologne (2015): Bright, clean, and breezy, with grapefruit, neroli, and musk. Discontinued.
• EDP (2016): Cherry, almond, rose, vanilla, and spice. A deeper, warmer, sweeter take on the original. Still available, but reportedly reformulated.
• Sport (2017): An odd mix of aquatic notes and sweet almond. The "sport" label felt misplaced. Discontinued.
• L’Intense (2018): Incense, chili, and leather. Spicy and moody. I’ve sampled an older bottle and appreciated its uniqueness, though I never pulled the trigger on a purchase.
• Cool (2019): Mint and aquatic notes. Related to the Cologne but overly minty—almost toothpaste-adjacent. Discontinued.
• Extrême (2020): Plum, cinnamon, tobacco, and almond. Rich and warm. A bolder version, but arguably too close to the EDP to justify owning both.
• Platine Privé (2023): Grapefruit, sage, and almond. Limited edition. Technically still in circulation, but very hard to find.
• Parfum (2024): The newest release. Rum, vanilla, and patchouli. Thick, rich, and dark. A return to form with stronger performance.
  
  
  

Despite variations, the series revolves around nutty-sweet gourmand touches—cherry, almond, vanilla, tonka, boozy notes and plum—all used in ways that feel elegant rather than sugary. I feel Guerlain's goal has always been sophistication with just enough playfulness, and that playfulness is strong here. But don't get it twisted, Guerlain is not aiming for its customers to smell like a sticky dessert, more like a refined meal with a perfectly chosen drink for desert to wash it all down.

Strike one: The EDP — gorgeous, but gone in a flash

After watching hours of rave reviews, I bought a 100ml bottle of L’Homme Idéal EDP. Everyone seemed to praise its romantic warmth and cherry-almond richness. I ordered it blind, figuring that even if it wasn’t for me, I’d have no trouble reselling it.

What I didn’t realize was that many of those glowing reviews were for older formulations. The version I unboxed was the latest release, and that made all the difference.

On first spray, I was impressed. The bottle was elegant, weighty, and well-designed. The juice had a soft amber-rose tone, subtle but luxurious. The scent itself? Easily one of the best I’d smelled in a while. The cherry and almond opened smoothly, softened by a floral heart and anchored in a warm vanilla-tonka base. It smelled like being wrapped in a cherry-wood blanket on a cool evening. Cozy, romantic, and just a little offbeat.

For about 45 minutes, I was completely sold. And then it vanished.

This wasn’t a slow fade. Within an hour, it had collapsed into a skin scent. By hour two, it was practically gone. I tried everything—spraying on clothes, using moisturizer, increasing the number of sprays—but nothing helped. My wife, who usually notices everything I wear, confirmed what I suspected: there was barely anything left to smell.

The fragrance itself is stunning, but such weak performance for a fragrance costing more than $100 CAD was unacceptable. I sold the bottle after a week.

Strike Two: The Extrême — virtually the same bottle and a familiar disappointment

Despite the EDP’s failure, I wasn’t ready to write off the line. Extrême had been described by experienced reviewers as the standout of the series. The note breakdown (plum, cinnamon and tobacco) promised something deeper, darker and more intriguing.

Once again, the presentation was strong, but the packaging raised a red flag. Older versions of Extrême featured red accents on the label and cap. The bottle I received looked almost identical to the EDP with the same bottle shape and colored label but with a different name and just a slightly different juice color. I wondered if a corner had been cut in the name of unifying the brand presentation.

Still, like with the EDP the scent of the Extrême opened with such promise. The plum was juicy and bright, followed by warm cinnamon, soft almond and subtle hints of tobacco and cedar. It felt slightly fresher and more structured than the EDP. A bit less romantic, but more complete in some ways than it also.

Unfortunately, the performance didn’t fare much better. Clearly stronger at first, but still weak overall. This time I got about two hours of presence before it began fading. On fabric, it lingered a bit longer, but only if I put my nose right up to it.

I gave the Extrême more time. Let it macerate. Wore it daily to see if my nose would adjust. Nothing changed. I still have the bottle, hoping maybe one day a buyer will show interest or it will click with my nose, but my hopes in it are dimming.

The Parfum — strike three? 

Reformulations have clearly taken a toll on what were once highly regarded fragrances. Both the EDP and Extrême smell exceptional out of the gate, yet their performance for me was so poor that they’re almost unwearable without constant reapplication every couple of hours. For scents in the $100+ CAD price range and pedigree, that’s a serious letdown.

There may be some who don’t mind refreshing throughout the day. Personally, I expect more, especially from a house like Guerlain which has gotten much of what it has designed right for nearly two centurieis. A good fragrance should carry you, not the other way around.

The story doesn’t end here, though. I’ve also been wearing L’Homme Idéal Parfum, and that one tells a different story. Stronger, more sophisticated, and finally worthy of the legendary Guerlain name. I’ll be reviewing that one next Friday.

Stay tuned!